right folks i have a ford escort and it wont start up at all, i turn the key and all the lights work,indicators etc but thats it, ive changed the starter motor its not that but when i turn the key on escorts you normally hear the fuel pump kick in just before they start on mine i dont heaer it, theres nothing at all and there is a small red light on the dash under the clock which lights up for about 5 seconds then goes out to tell you the cars ok, theres no light at all either ive checked fuses,fuel cut out switch etc nothing anyone any idea its as if theres no power in the car or something the battery is also fine as its been tested????????????
Escort 1998 zetec (uk)?
Test for power at the starter solonoid when you are turning the key. If no power, then check to make sure the neutral safety switch is working, the alarm is off, and that the ignition switch is working. There are too many things to choose from, these will be a good starting point.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
I know some people will either say %26quot;It starts, or it Doesnt.%26quot; Well, i want to know if there is an in-between, where the Starter or Starter Motor can %26quot;Weaken%26quot; until it WONT turn anymore, even with a Fine Battery.
Even if it was %26quot;Warm%26quot; out, my car would turn over distinctly %26quot;Twice,%26quot; THEN Start. SOmetimes, after driving, id turn the key, it would ALMOST catch, then turn over for 5-10 Seconds, THEN Start.. IF i didnt help it by pressing the Gas Pedal. This makes me think i need my Fuel Filter changed, and maybe/Probably a TUNE-UP.
This 199 Olds Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Ive been posting about IS an Oldsmobile, IS Super-Reliable, DOES need an Oil Change (I know, about to put 5W-30 in it for WINTER ONLY with NO LUCAS STABILIZER as i had 1 1qt Bottle in there for Summer and to Help).. and probably DOES have ORIGINAL PARTS on it, like:
FUEL FILTER
--STARTER-- and RELATED
SPARK PLUG WIRES
--YOU NAME IT.--
I gotta get its coolant FLUSHED too.. if it was MANUAL i could do it myself.
Now. I also was curious as to what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is.See, the pattern I described above Fairly commonly REPEATS itself! Alternator is good (Should i replace that too? Im thinking NO.. it PASSED a Charging system Test!/LOAD TEST, electronic matched to Temp and CCAs of Battery, Battery is 2 months old Interstate clone of Advance Auto Parts, Johnson Control Systems from October this year, OEM Replacement).. so IS IT POSSIBLE that the STARTER is weakening.. oh yes..
WHAT IS -IGNITION TIMING- and I HAVE HEARD THIS 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4 GM Engine from 1991 DID NOT HAVE A TIMING CHAIN OR BELT! Is this True?
Please shed some light.. im concerned, and YES i know I need to get the oil out of there.. it MAY be COLD this winter (was this morning) so is 5W-30 OIL for the WInter?
THANKS for the INSIGHT!!!
PS: IS it better to stick with OEM Plugs (and what are they,) or do i get the Bosch Platinum+4 on OEM Wires (AC Delco)?
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Ok you say the alternator passed test,ok to stay,the Starter motor may be doing what my last ford did and starting to short circuit,only did this if i tried to start car and it didn't fire on first try,if it didn't fire after second try the started motor would flatten the battery totally ,need 8+ hours recharge time, so maybe you need to get it tested,go to a dealer if you are confused about the spark plugs and ignition leads for them,information costs nothing to ask about,then purchase from where ever you want,you can also get the Timing belt,chain question answered as well, or telephone a dealers maintenance shop for the specifics for the make and model as they should know and as before information doesn't cost you much if you ask, oil 5w-30 is fine for the winter time,but change it every 3-6 months and the motor will appreciate it, timing or ignition timing is normally on engines with distributors,where the spark plug leads come from leading to the spark plug,usually the distributor has a clamp bolt at the base of it ,this is loosened just enough that the whole distributor can be turned about it's centre,either clockwise or anti-clockwise,causing the ignition timing to be retarded or advance as required,usually carried out with a strobe timing light,that flashes in time with number 1 spark plug and this should correspond to a marker on the crankshaft pulley at the end of the engine,this also normally has a fixed scale or pointer to align it too.
Coolant you say you could do it if was manual should not make any difference as the only extra thing is a transmission oil cooler added to the bottom of the radiator, this shouldn't stop you changing the coolant or flushing out the system,but remember to put the right antifreeze concentration back in,hope this helps some way,Cheers and good luck .
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Some people say it can, i hope they tell you what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is and if the engine DOES have a Timing CHain, because Wikipedia says it doesnt...
Even if it was %26quot;Warm%26quot; out, my car would turn over distinctly %26quot;Twice,%26quot; THEN Start. SOmetimes, after driving, id turn the key, it would ALMOST catch, then turn over for 5-10 Seconds, THEN Start.. IF i didnt help it by pressing the Gas Pedal. This makes me think i need my Fuel Filter changed, and maybe/Probably a TUNE-UP.
This 199 Olds Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Ive been posting about IS an Oldsmobile, IS Super-Reliable, DOES need an Oil Change (I know, about to put 5W-30 in it for WINTER ONLY with NO LUCAS STABILIZER as i had 1 1qt Bottle in there for Summer and to Help).. and probably DOES have ORIGINAL PARTS on it, like:
FUEL FILTER
--STARTER-- and RELATED
SPARK PLUG WIRES
--YOU NAME IT.--
I gotta get its coolant FLUSHED too.. if it was MANUAL i could do it myself.
Now. I also was curious as to what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is.See, the pattern I described above Fairly commonly REPEATS itself! Alternator is good (Should i replace that too? Im thinking NO.. it PASSED a Charging system Test!/LOAD TEST, electronic matched to Temp and CCAs of Battery, Battery is 2 months old Interstate clone of Advance Auto Parts, Johnson Control Systems from October this year, OEM Replacement).. so IS IT POSSIBLE that the STARTER is weakening.. oh yes..
WHAT IS -IGNITION TIMING- and I HAVE HEARD THIS 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4 GM Engine from 1991 DID NOT HAVE A TIMING CHAIN OR BELT! Is this True?
Please shed some light.. im concerned, and YES i know I need to get the oil out of there.. it MAY be COLD this winter (was this morning) so is 5W-30 OIL for the WInter?
THANKS for the INSIGHT!!!
PS: IS it better to stick with OEM Plugs (and what are they,) or do i get the Bosch Platinum+4 on OEM Wires (AC Delco)?
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Ok you say the alternator passed test,ok to stay,the Starter motor may be doing what my last ford did and starting to short circuit,only did this if i tried to start car and it didn't fire on first try,if it didn't fire after second try the started motor would flatten the battery totally ,need 8+ hours recharge time, so maybe you need to get it tested,go to a dealer if you are confused about the spark plugs and ignition leads for them,information costs nothing to ask about,then purchase from where ever you want,you can also get the Timing belt,chain question answered as well, or telephone a dealers maintenance shop for the specifics for the make and model as they should know and as before information doesn't cost you much if you ask, oil 5w-30 is fine for the winter time,but change it every 3-6 months and the motor will appreciate it, timing or ignition timing is normally on engines with distributors,where the spark plug leads come from leading to the spark plug,usually the distributor has a clamp bolt at the base of it ,this is loosened just enough that the whole distributor can be turned about it's centre,either clockwise or anti-clockwise,causing the ignition timing to be retarded or advance as required,usually carried out with a strobe timing light,that flashes in time with number 1 spark plug and this should correspond to a marker on the crankshaft pulley at the end of the engine,this also normally has a fixed scale or pointer to align it too.
Coolant you say you could do it if was manual should not make any difference as the only extra thing is a transmission oil cooler added to the bottom of the radiator, this shouldn't stop you changing the coolant or flushing out the system,but remember to put the right antifreeze concentration back in,hope this helps some way,Cheers and good luck .
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Some people say it can, i hope they tell you what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is and if the engine DOES have a Timing CHain, because Wikipedia says it doesnt...
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
it is having a hard time turning the engine,i changed the battery and starter relay.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
Remove the spark plugs from the engine and try turning the engine by hand with a wrench (to make sure your engine turns freely).
If the engine is OK, then remove the starter motor from the engine. Leave the starter motor cable hooked up. Attach a jumper cable from the body of the starter motor to a ground on the bike (motor mount bolt or negative battery terminal). Hold the starter motor in one hand and push the starter button. The starter motor should spin with enough force to almost jump out of your hand.
If it spins like a limp chicken, then it probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
How old is the bike? There are many moving parts that the starter has to get in motion. When is the last time it ran? If the engine is gunked up that is all the more strain for the stater.
See if this site helps you at all in the process.
http://www.indianmcinfo.com/Indian_stuff鈥?/a>
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
Remove the spark plugs from the engine and try turning the engine by hand with a wrench (to make sure your engine turns freely).
If the engine is OK, then remove the starter motor from the engine. Leave the starter motor cable hooked up. Attach a jumper cable from the body of the starter motor to a ground on the bike (motor mount bolt or negative battery terminal). Hold the starter motor in one hand and push the starter button. The starter motor should spin with enough force to almost jump out of your hand.
If it spins like a limp chicken, then it probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
How old is the bike? There are many moving parts that the starter has to get in motion. When is the last time it ran? If the engine is gunked up that is all the more strain for the stater.
See if this site helps you at all in the process.
http://www.indianmcinfo.com/Indian_stuff鈥?/a>
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
I have a Vauxhall Corsa B 1.0 12v. The car has been left standing for 3 months and will now not start. Originally I thought the battery had expired so I got a new one and this did not change matters. I then changed the starter motor for a new one, and the car is still not starting.
The starter motor turns the engine, but only by one or two rotations. While it is doing this, it makes a very loud squealing screeching sound (no it's not the fan belt making this sound).
Before the new (taken from a scrapped car) starter motor was installed it was checked to be working. I have run out of ideas of what could be wrong with it? Does anybody know?
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
Try turning the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer and make sure the engine is not locking up. Remove your starter and try turning the flywheel with a large screw driver. But it does sound like the engine bearings are shot or have rolled over which is even worse.
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
was car running and starting ok when parked. if not then you need to check your flywheel. if it was you may have a grounding problem or entertain the ideal that may be some one sabotaged it.
the engine is frozen in it's bearings.
Junk.
The starter motor turns the engine, but only by one or two rotations. While it is doing this, it makes a very loud squealing screeching sound (no it's not the fan belt making this sound).
Before the new (taken from a scrapped car) starter motor was installed it was checked to be working. I have run out of ideas of what could be wrong with it? Does anybody know?
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
Try turning the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer and make sure the engine is not locking up. Remove your starter and try turning the flywheel with a large screw driver. But it does sound like the engine bearings are shot or have rolled over which is even worse.
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
was car running and starting ok when parked. if not then you need to check your flywheel. if it was you may have a grounding problem or entertain the ideal that may be some one sabotaged it.
the engine is frozen in it's bearings.
Junk.
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
my car is playing up, its so unreliable as alot of the time i try to start my car it dont start but all the lights and my sterio comes on then it will be alright for a few days -1 week then will play up and wont start so i have to be pushed to get it started eveytime which i assumed it was the starter motor and asked 4 machanics and they said yes we will change it, then i spoke to this 1 machanic and he said no it is not ur starter motor because everythings coming on and that it cud be the battery not giving enough power to start most of the machanics out there just wana take ur money they wud of happily changed my starter motor but its not that please help,
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
okay the 1 mechanic obviously hasn't got a clue. if all the lights come on but the engine wont turn every time its the starter motor. if all lights come on and engine turns very very slowly and all lights go dim it the battery. Test. if all lights come on but engine doesn't turn tap the starter a few times with a hammer usually this will unstick the solenoid or push down hill if it starts either way it is your starter. unfortunately there are many bad mechanics and its hard to find one who you can trust but good mechanics are out there like me lol.
if it is your starter take it off and take it too a part co store they will take your old one and reduce the cost of a new recon usually in stock. you really shouldn't be looking anymore than 拢120 fitted and to me even that's expensive. if only you lived in the stafford area. all the best
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
Hello
First of all has the Red light on the dashboard been glowing at all when the engine is running? If so your Altenator drive belt may need tightening.
Next time it will not start try starting it by Jump Leads,
Switch off both cars.
First connect Positive lead to other cars battery Positive Terminal
Second connect other end to your cars battery Positive Terminal
Thirdly connect Negative lead to other cars battery Negative Terminal
Lastly connect the other end to a good earth on your car like the lifting eye on the engine, NOT the Negative Terminal on your cars battery.
Start up other car
Let it run for at least 5 minutes
Try and start your car?
If it now starts your Stater Motor is OK
Leave your engine running and remove the Jump Leads
Now get a Volt Meter and take a reading across your battery and it should read 12 Volts, Get your friend to slowly rev up your engine and the reading should go up to about 14.6 Volts.
If you get that then your Charging system is OK
Switch Off your engine and the Volt Meter reading should not drop below 12 Volts
If it doesn't then your battery is OK
If all these check out OK then it could be your car just needs a service or the Ignition Coil is starting to play up.
If you get more than the 14.6 Volts then your Voltage Regulator is faulty (Part of the Altenator) and may have cooked the Battery so you may have to replace both you would then get less than 12 Volts when you switch off the engine.
If you were near me I could do that for you and it would cost you a pint.
Failing that join a recovery service and call them out next time it happens or if it is running take it to a battery sales shop and ask them to check it for you
Hope this helps
Andy CFish robin summer rentals
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
okay the 1 mechanic obviously hasn't got a clue. if all the lights come on but the engine wont turn every time its the starter motor. if all lights come on and engine turns very very slowly and all lights go dim it the battery. Test. if all lights come on but engine doesn't turn tap the starter a few times with a hammer usually this will unstick the solenoid or push down hill if it starts either way it is your starter. unfortunately there are many bad mechanics and its hard to find one who you can trust but good mechanics are out there like me lol.
if it is your starter take it off and take it too a part co store they will take your old one and reduce the cost of a new recon usually in stock. you really shouldn't be looking anymore than 拢120 fitted and to me even that's expensive. if only you lived in the stafford area. all the best
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
Hello
First of all has the Red light on the dashboard been glowing at all when the engine is running? If so your Altenator drive belt may need tightening.
Next time it will not start try starting it by Jump Leads,
Switch off both cars.
First connect Positive lead to other cars battery Positive Terminal
Second connect other end to your cars battery Positive Terminal
Thirdly connect Negative lead to other cars battery Negative Terminal
Lastly connect the other end to a good earth on your car like the lifting eye on the engine, NOT the Negative Terminal on your cars battery.
Start up other car
Let it run for at least 5 minutes
Try and start your car?
If it now starts your Stater Motor is OK
Leave your engine running and remove the Jump Leads
Now get a Volt Meter and take a reading across your battery and it should read 12 Volts, Get your friend to slowly rev up your engine and the reading should go up to about 14.6 Volts.
If you get that then your Charging system is OK
Switch Off your engine and the Volt Meter reading should not drop below 12 Volts
If it doesn't then your battery is OK
If all these check out OK then it could be your car just needs a service or the Ignition Coil is starting to play up.
If you get more than the 14.6 Volts then your Voltage Regulator is faulty (Part of the Altenator) and may have cooked the Battery so you may have to replace both you would then get less than 12 Volts when you switch off the engine.
If you were near me I could do that for you and it would cost you a pint.
Failing that join a recovery service and call them out next time it happens or if it is running take it to a battery sales shop and ask them to check it for you
Hope this helps
Andy C
Car has no rpm power?
hi, i went to the garage today to change my starter motor, on my way there it was working fine, however when i left the garage, the car would only go to 2000rmp when i accelarate. so i took it back to the garage so they would sort it out. but they don't know what the problem could be.
i have a peugeot 306 hdi 1999
anyone has anyu ideas?
Car has no rpm power?
If it was fine when you got to the garage and then broken when you left they have caused the fault and should rectify it.
Most likely an electrical circuit has been disconnected/damaged/broken.
Car has no rpm power?
if it didnt do it before going they mess it up might have knock off a wire could have been easy and then always a possible they did it so you would spend more money
Not being sarcastic but get a new car, If you live in the UK the government will give you a Grand to scrap it! provided that you buy a greener car and then all car dealers are obliged to chop ANOTHER grand from your car. This scheme is aimed to re boost the car market, go greener and hey you get a new car cheap!
Hurry though because when this technique was attempted in Germany the money ran out after two months Get Yo' Skates On
Happy Car Shopping!!
i have a peugeot 306 hdi 1999
anyone has anyu ideas?
Car has no rpm power?
If it was fine when you got to the garage and then broken when you left they have caused the fault and should rectify it.
Most likely an electrical circuit has been disconnected/damaged/broken.
Car has no rpm power?
if it didnt do it before going they mess it up might have knock off a wire could have been easy and then always a possible they did it so you would spend more money
Not being sarcastic but get a new car, If you live in the UK the government will give you a Grand to scrap it! provided that you buy a greener car and then all car dealers are obliged to chop ANOTHER grand from your car. This scheme is aimed to re boost the car market, go greener and hey you get a new car cheap!
Hurry though because when this technique was attempted in Germany the money ran out after two months Get Yo' Skates On
Happy Car Shopping!!
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
I just put a new battery in my car this evening. My car, a 1999 Nissan Maxima, has 170,000 all with the factory battery. I could it was having a difficult time starting lately, so my first option was to change the battery.
Well, now it won't start at all. I turn the key and all I hear is a clicking noise. All of the interior lights are illuminated and the radio is working. Would a brand new battery need to be charged? is the issue with the starter motor? help would be much appreciated.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
The problem on the 1994 Nissan Maxima is the starter motor, it's can't turn the flywheel by few cause : worn solenoid, this will make starter motor not enough power to move forward the pinion gear to engage the flywheel ; worn starter motor brush, same as solenoid, but the brush is function as connector from battery to starter motor coil to make power to turn the starter motor pinion that will also turn the flywheel ; the starter motor pinion miss match with flywheel, this make pinion %26quot;teeth%26quot; doesn't meet the flywheel %26quot;teeth%26quot; so iys like nothing to turn by pinion. For miss match, just push the Maxima a bit with starter try to turn, mean to turn the flywhel and maybe can match the pinion. For solenoid and brush, need to replace those things. Those condition if when the ignition key being turn, there is a click sound and the dasboard light a bit dimmer. If no dimmering on dashboard light, please check the starter wire for loosing groung wire or not tight.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
on a new battery , there is caps are on the posts remove it should be ok to start
I know Nissan's have a lot of electrical problems. Sounds like the starter !
Clean the battery terminal and make sure it is tightly bolted on. If that does not work try to jump start the car. If that does not work return the battery and have them load test it. If the battery is fine and the connections are good then maybe the starter needs replacing.
try this put the car in nutraul foot on brake and it will start safty switch might be gone or if thats not it drop a line and ill give you a hand put in n and go trust me ...
you problem have a stARTER RELAY THAT IS NT WORKING OR THE SOLENOID IS BAD OR BENDIX BUT I WOULD SAGEST THAT YOU TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER MOTOR BEFORE just baying a new starter and check Thes things out for starter motor run some place around 200 to 250 depending on Ware you get them best of luck
Well, now it won't start at all. I turn the key and all I hear is a clicking noise. All of the interior lights are illuminated and the radio is working. Would a brand new battery need to be charged? is the issue with the starter motor? help would be much appreciated.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
The problem on the 1994 Nissan Maxima is the starter motor, it's can't turn the flywheel by few cause : worn solenoid, this will make starter motor not enough power to move forward the pinion gear to engage the flywheel ; worn starter motor brush, same as solenoid, but the brush is function as connector from battery to starter motor coil to make power to turn the starter motor pinion that will also turn the flywheel ; the starter motor pinion miss match with flywheel, this make pinion %26quot;teeth%26quot; doesn't meet the flywheel %26quot;teeth%26quot; so iys like nothing to turn by pinion. For miss match, just push the Maxima a bit with starter try to turn, mean to turn the flywhel and maybe can match the pinion. For solenoid and brush, need to replace those things. Those condition if when the ignition key being turn, there is a click sound and the dasboard light a bit dimmer. If no dimmering on dashboard light, please check the starter wire for loosing groung wire or not tight.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
on a new battery , there is caps are on the posts remove it should be ok to start
I know Nissan's have a lot of electrical problems. Sounds like the starter !
Clean the battery terminal and make sure it is tightly bolted on. If that does not work try to jump start the car. If that does not work return the battery and have them load test it. If the battery is fine and the connections are good then maybe the starter needs replacing.
try this put the car in nutraul foot on brake and it will start safty switch might be gone or if thats not it drop a line and ill give you a hand put in n and go trust me ...
you problem have a stARTER RELAY THAT IS NT WORKING OR THE SOLENOID IS BAD OR BENDIX BUT I WOULD SAGEST THAT YOU TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER MOTOR BEFORE just baying a new starter and check Thes things out for starter motor run some place around 200 to 250 depending on Ware you get them best of luck
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
HONDA CIVIC EX 1997 manual!
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
1. the starter has a flat spot internally.
2. your wiring to the starter could be bad or corroded.
3. if the above are %26quot;okay%26quot; then check the ignition switch.
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
1. the starter has a flat spot internally.
2. your wiring to the starter could be bad or corroded.
3. if the above are %26quot;okay%26quot; then check the ignition switch.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
I always disconnect the negative (only) cable from my battery (boat/outboard motor) when I bring it in. Yesterday, I connected the negative cable back to the post, tried to start and the starter would spin but (after MUCH investigation) I discovered that it was spinning in the wrong direction. I disconnected/reconnected the negative cables and, voila, it started spinning correctly. ?!?
This is an older motor (circa 1991/1992) so the starter has brushes... not rare earth magnets. I can find nothing online about it except one forum telling a user with the same problem that it can't happen. Any answers out there?
How does a starter motor change polarity?
It could happen if the brush plate moved or the magnets on the housing moved. Are U sure the ground or positive wasn't tight and just didn't spin fast enough to connect the Bendix??? Any way it fixed in self.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
happened to mine once...after a rebuild in which I had reversed the brushes in the brush holder. Starter would spin like nobody's business, but it took me awhile to figure out why the bendix wouldn't engage............
Believe it or not, a battery can reverse it's polarity. Only way I know of, though is for it to be completely discharged, and have a load still on it. Then after recharging normally, the polarity can just spontaneously reverse. Don't ask me how though.
This is an older motor (circa 1991/1992) so the starter has brushes... not rare earth magnets. I can find nothing online about it except one forum telling a user with the same problem that it can't happen. Any answers out there?
How does a starter motor change polarity?
It could happen if the brush plate moved or the magnets on the housing moved. Are U sure the ground or positive wasn't tight and just didn't spin fast enough to connect the Bendix??? Any way it fixed in self.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
happened to mine once...after a rebuild in which I had reversed the brushes in the brush holder. Starter would spin like nobody's business, but it took me awhile to figure out why the bendix wouldn't engage............
Believe it or not, a battery can reverse it's polarity. Only way I know of, though is for it to be completely discharged, and have a load still on it. Then after recharging normally, the polarity can just spontaneously reverse. Don't ask me how though.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor,
is it an easy job, can u instruct me please :)
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store鈥?/a> in here is a step by step guide to anything you want to do with your car just pay 拢20 and this wonderous book is yours or http://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-Workshop-鈥?/a> 拢15.99 from here.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
easy.....
1,disconnect battery
2,locate your starter,disconnect and wire connected to it,there may be 2 or 3,just remember where they go
3,remove starter mounting bolts.theres normally 3,sometimes theres a strengthening bracket at the rear.sometimes theres an earth point on one of the bolts.
4,refitting is reversal of removal...but make sure the locating dowels are in the right place so it fts perfectly...
5reconnect wires,connect battery and test...ps,youll have to put your radio code back in....but thats another question/answer.....
get a mechanic to give you a quote, if your asking for instructions, don't attempt itemail parameter order
is it an easy job, can u instruct me please :)
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store鈥?/a> in here is a step by step guide to anything you want to do with your car just pay 拢20 and this wonderous book is yours or http://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-Workshop-鈥?/a> 拢15.99 from here.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
easy.....
1,disconnect battery
2,locate your starter,disconnect and wire connected to it,there may be 2 or 3,just remember where they go
3,remove starter mounting bolts.theres normally 3,sometimes theres a strengthening bracket at the rear.sometimes theres an earth point on one of the bolts.
4,refitting is reversal of removal...but make sure the locating dowels are in the right place so it fts perfectly...
5reconnect wires,connect battery and test...ps,youll have to put your radio code back in....but thats another question/answer.....
get a mechanic to give you a quote, if your asking for instructions, don't attempt it
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
i have recently changed my starter motor on my 2001 Ford transit 2.4 330LWB HR but i think i have Wired it wrong please can some one give me a link to a free wiring diagram thankyou :)
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
I doubt you have wired it wrong,more like not earthed it properly.
Try putting an earth direct to it from the battery and see if that helps.
Are you sure the starter motor relay is not at fault?
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
I doubt you have wired it wrong,more like not earthed it properly.
Try putting an earth direct to it from the battery and see if that helps.
Are you sure the starter motor relay is not at fault?
Corsa still won't start?
My Corsa (V reg, 1.2 GLS 16v) will not start. When i turn the key the starter motor turns but the engine won't fire. For a while it would start ok if the engine was warm but never if it was cold, but now it won't start off anything but a push start (bump).
So far I have changed the spark plugs, changed the starter motor and had a brand new battery, none of which has helped
Somebody please help!
Corsa still won't start?
I would have told you to replace all the things you have allready replaced AND one more thing.
Check into your fuel system. I bet you a dollar the fuel isn't getting to the intake manifold and that is why your car isn't starting. You might have a clogged fuel filter that isn't letting enough fuel pass through it. You might have a bad fuel pressure regulator which is not providing enough fuel pressure or you may have a dirty clogged up carb. Or if its fuel injected or has a throttle body injection system, the injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced. You may also have a bad fuel pump which isn't pumping any fuel at all. If so replace it. A good way to check if you car isn't starting because there is not fuel pressure is by taking off the air cleaner if you have a carb. and having someone turn the ignition key while you pour A LITTLE BIT of gasoline into the carb from the top. Don't put to much gas or it will flood the engine, and you will have an even harder time starting it.
If the fuel system isn't the problem then it should be a problem in your ignition system. Your alternator might be bad, its not your battery because you already replaced it. It might be the distributor, ignition module, ignition coil, or the spark plug cables. Its not the spark plugs themselves because you already replaced them.
Corsa still won't start?
did u try a new key switch
Trade it in for a Ferrari.
you'll need to check the fuel filter but I think its more likely to be the coil pack.
get your coil and all your leads changed - a coil not pumping out quite what it should will result in poor cold starting
it should cost a hundred quid or so to have it done for you - its not a big job on a corsa.
get your timing cheked also
does it make a quiet whirring noise?
have you tried pushing the car a few feet forward while in gear? it sounds like the forks in the starter motore arent lined up. Moving the car in gear with spin them round a bit, and hopefully line them up, enabling the motor to engage the engine etc.
Your vehicle could be suffering from good old %26quot;coil robbing%26quot; wherein there isn't enough juice in the battery to spin the engine and spark the plugs.
This can be caused by either a faulty battery, faulty starter, faulty coil pack, or a faulty igniton amp.
You could also have a fuelling problem such as a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, faulty coolant sensor etc...
Cheers
Geordie
It could be a fuel problem. Does the exhaust smell of petrol after cranking the engine?
So far I have changed the spark plugs, changed the starter motor and had a brand new battery, none of which has helped
Somebody please help!
Corsa still won't start?
I would have told you to replace all the things you have allready replaced AND one more thing.
Check into your fuel system. I bet you a dollar the fuel isn't getting to the intake manifold and that is why your car isn't starting. You might have a clogged fuel filter that isn't letting enough fuel pass through it. You might have a bad fuel pressure regulator which is not providing enough fuel pressure or you may have a dirty clogged up carb. Or if its fuel injected or has a throttle body injection system, the injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced. You may also have a bad fuel pump which isn't pumping any fuel at all. If so replace it. A good way to check if you car isn't starting because there is not fuel pressure is by taking off the air cleaner if you have a carb. and having someone turn the ignition key while you pour A LITTLE BIT of gasoline into the carb from the top. Don't put to much gas or it will flood the engine, and you will have an even harder time starting it.
If the fuel system isn't the problem then it should be a problem in your ignition system. Your alternator might be bad, its not your battery because you already replaced it. It might be the distributor, ignition module, ignition coil, or the spark plug cables. Its not the spark plugs themselves because you already replaced them.
Corsa still won't start?
did u try a new key switch
Trade it in for a Ferrari.
you'll need to check the fuel filter but I think its more likely to be the coil pack.
get your coil and all your leads changed - a coil not pumping out quite what it should will result in poor cold starting
it should cost a hundred quid or so to have it done for you - its not a big job on a corsa.
get your timing cheked also
does it make a quiet whirring noise?
have you tried pushing the car a few feet forward while in gear? it sounds like the forks in the starter motore arent lined up. Moving the car in gear with spin them round a bit, and hopefully line them up, enabling the motor to engage the engine etc.
Your vehicle could be suffering from good old %26quot;coil robbing%26quot; wherein there isn't enough juice in the battery to spin the engine and spark the plugs.
This can be caused by either a faulty battery, faulty starter, faulty coil pack, or a faulty igniton amp.
You could also have a fuelling problem such as a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, faulty coolant sensor etc...
Cheers
Geordie
It could be a fuel problem. Does the exhaust smell of petrol after cranking the engine?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
It worked fine yesterday, it feels like a loose connection because the battery is fine and when the starter motor does turn over it starts fine. It's one year old and the battery terminals are fine.
Also just got it back from bike shop two days ago after getting a rear tyre changed.....
Thanks for any help
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
try using WD40 on the starter switch and give the insides a good clean....check the power of the battery, it might be knackerd thus not have just enough power to turn the engine...when you press the starter does your headlight go out completely? hope this helps! wot bike you got?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
Is it an older Yamaha Virago? It was a common problem.
The problem is the switch behind your starter button. Its corroded or burned.
The switch can be dismantled and cleaned with contact cleaner but there is a tiny spring inside that tends to jump out and hide.
Corrosion can cause the tiny ttits that make it work to burn, in which case, the switch is shot.
The switch itself cannot be replaced, the entire switch box and wiring, must be.
Also just got it back from bike shop two days ago after getting a rear tyre changed.....
Thanks for any help
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
try using WD40 on the starter switch and give the insides a good clean....check the power of the battery, it might be knackerd thus not have just enough power to turn the engine...when you press the starter does your headlight go out completely? hope this helps! wot bike you got?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
Is it an older Yamaha Virago? It was a common problem.
The problem is the switch behind your starter button. Its corroded or burned.
The switch can be dismantled and cleaned with contact cleaner but there is a tiny spring inside that tends to jump out and hide.
Corrosion can cause the tiny ttits that make it work to burn, in which case, the switch is shot.
The switch itself cannot be replaced, the entire switch box and wiring, must be.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
i woke up one morning a switch my kitchen light on and it buzzed and it has been buzzing since ive changed the starter motor and the tube its self but that hasent sorted it nothing has so can you answer please
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
You don't say what size or type or what it's fixed to?? The metal batten is probably resonating with the ballast, tighten the fixing screws inside, remove and put a slight twist in the cover, then refit.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
The Transformer is humming !!
the casing might be loose see if tightening it helps
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
You don't say what size or type or what it's fixed to?? The metal batten is probably resonating with the ballast, tighten the fixing screws inside, remove and put a slight twist in the cover, then refit.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
The Transformer is humming !!
the casing might be loose see if tightening it helps
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
Hi All, I hope someone can help me here as I have almost lost hope with my Peugout 306. One problem after the other. In the Last two months I have had a new clutch, starter motor, driveshaft, wishbone. A few days ago I topped my car up with too much engine oil which resulted in white smoke on the M40! The following day I drained all the oil and put some back in upto the dipstick level. When I drove the car it began to judder in all gears. An ex mechanic told me I need the spark plugs changed which I did today, but they had no effect on the juddering. The mechanic also told me my PAS belt and fan belt are almost perished which need replacing. My car also makes a constant emabrassing squeachy/screaming noise. This is my first car and love it to bits, I would be much appreciated if someone can guide me as to how I can get rid of these problems.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
The squeachy noise is the fan the drive belts either the PAS or the alternator. Change them and make sure the belt's are correctly adjusted.
The 306 has a known problem with the coil pack, its located on top of the engine on the r/h side. Over time the heat from the engine results in a break down of the insulation on the pack.
Strange that it only started when you overfilled the engine oil.
If I was you I would start from the spark plugs, remove them, clean them and check the gap on them.
Then replace the HT leads, again over time they can break down through the heat of the engine and after removing them to change the spark plugs you and aggravate there condition.
If this does not cure the problem then I would try your local scrap yard for a replacement coil pack.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
I have a Nissan Micra which used to bunny hop along the road. The engine also used to keep cutting out. It is an automatic. Eventually a test showed that it was an air sensor on the throttle housing unit and the whole unit had to be replaced.
You may need to get the car thoroughly overhauled by a reputable garage (I was towed to one by automania) and they can fully investigate and give you a diagnosis. Won't be cheap though. Hope this helps.
I haven't delved under the bonnet of a car in years but remember:----
The screechy screaming noise sounds like a fan belt is slipping.
The juddering noise if it happens when you turn the engine off and it seems like it wants to keep going is called pinking or pre-ignition.
The juddering would most be due to your clutch plate which may be contaminated with oil or grease. Therefore you are not getting full contact with the flywheel when driven.
To make sure you don't have an ignition misfire, install new spark plug wires if they've never been changed. Also a new distributor cap and rotor if they have over 30000 miles on them and your vehicle is so equipped.
Ok, a bit surprised your %26quot;ex mechanic%26quot; did not advise you to clear your engine breather. Pressure builds in the crankcase during normal operation, this pressure is vented through the engine breather pipe. High pressure would cause the problem you discribe. Over filling your engine with oil can block this pipe. Usually it is a pipe leading from your air filter housing down to you engine block. Remove the pipe and clear it, you need to also clear the metal pipe attached to the block. As far as the squealing, you belts need replacing.
Jez.
Hi
The screeching noise is almost definitely the drivebelt slipping, and unfortunately, I have a gut feeling you need to have a cylinder compression test carried out because it sounds as though you've popped the head gasket (unless of course you didn't gap the plugs properly, but I doubt it).
Very best regards
Geordie
the screach noise could be your fan belt or water pump, as for the juddering did you replace your HT leads properly, did you check the space on the bottom of your plugs (there should be a small gap about 2-3 mm), without looking at your car its hard to tell the problems.
the noise is likely to be the fan belt.
Soz mate but sounds like it's ready for the scrappers!loss of control in hands cope with a cheating
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
The squeachy noise is the fan the drive belts either the PAS or the alternator. Change them and make sure the belt's are correctly adjusted.
The 306 has a known problem with the coil pack, its located on top of the engine on the r/h side. Over time the heat from the engine results in a break down of the insulation on the pack.
Strange that it only started when you overfilled the engine oil.
If I was you I would start from the spark plugs, remove them, clean them and check the gap on them.
Then replace the HT leads, again over time they can break down through the heat of the engine and after removing them to change the spark plugs you and aggravate there condition.
If this does not cure the problem then I would try your local scrap yard for a replacement coil pack.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
I have a Nissan Micra which used to bunny hop along the road. The engine also used to keep cutting out. It is an automatic. Eventually a test showed that it was an air sensor on the throttle housing unit and the whole unit had to be replaced.
You may need to get the car thoroughly overhauled by a reputable garage (I was towed to one by automania) and they can fully investigate and give you a diagnosis. Won't be cheap though. Hope this helps.
I haven't delved under the bonnet of a car in years but remember:----
The screechy screaming noise sounds like a fan belt is slipping.
The juddering noise if it happens when you turn the engine off and it seems like it wants to keep going is called pinking or pre-ignition.
The juddering would most be due to your clutch plate which may be contaminated with oil or grease. Therefore you are not getting full contact with the flywheel when driven.
To make sure you don't have an ignition misfire, install new spark plug wires if they've never been changed. Also a new distributor cap and rotor if they have over 30000 miles on them and your vehicle is so equipped.
Ok, a bit surprised your %26quot;ex mechanic%26quot; did not advise you to clear your engine breather. Pressure builds in the crankcase during normal operation, this pressure is vented through the engine breather pipe. High pressure would cause the problem you discribe. Over filling your engine with oil can block this pipe. Usually it is a pipe leading from your air filter housing down to you engine block. Remove the pipe and clear it, you need to also clear the metal pipe attached to the block. As far as the squealing, you belts need replacing.
Jez.
Hi
The screeching noise is almost definitely the drivebelt slipping, and unfortunately, I have a gut feeling you need to have a cylinder compression test carried out because it sounds as though you've popped the head gasket (unless of course you didn't gap the plugs properly, but I doubt it).
Very best regards
Geordie
the screach noise could be your fan belt or water pump, as for the juddering did you replace your HT leads properly, did you check the space on the bottom of your plugs (there should be a small gap about 2-3 mm), without looking at your car its hard to tell the problems.
the noise is likely to be the fan belt.
Soz mate but sounds like it's ready for the scrappers!
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
I have a 95 Honda Civic coupe which I have had for around 2 months now. Recently I have been having problems with the car starting up. Starter motor would tick over but the engine just refuses to fire up. I remember having this problem on my previous car and had the distributor changed which resolved the problem.
I'm guessing on the civic i have got has the same problem and would like to know what is the best way to change the distributor. I have the part ready to install and obviously i do know that i need to remember which lead goes into which socket on the distributor end.
I want to do the replacement myself and i know that timing is involved but this is where i need advise. Do i change the distributor while the engine is cold, or do i get the engine up to operating temp, switch off and then change it? How do I set the timing up so i know that i have got the timing right?
Please note that i only have the basic of tools and I know the distributor can be adjusted before the nuts are tightened
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
my question is for you... how do you plan to get the engine to operating temps to change the dist if you can't get it started?! hehe... good thing is that a dist swap does NOT require any operating temperature to do. on those hondas, the biggest thing i see when people change the dist. is that they put it on backwards. look at yours before you take it off. look at the flat side of it and note the way it points. usually its towards the front of the car. thats a big one. the rotor on that can only go in one way, so don't be too worried about timing. it will find its way in to its groove when your lining it up to mount to the head. make sure you note the firing order, although its only 4, believe me, i've seen people screw it up. hopefully you're right and your dist is bad, but honestly, they really don't have a high failure rate. all they do is turn. good luck.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
Have you checked the clearance on the contact gaps? That's usually the source of that problem.
You should try changing the distributor cap first. They tend to 'crack and track'. Hold the new cap near the old one in the right position - there is usually a detent on the cap to make sure it goes back in the right position - swap the leads to the new cap one at a time into the same holes.
Worth that it's a cheap try and you would need the new cap anyway.
Roy
I agree with roy. First put a mark (Tip-ex or touch up paint stick) on the top of the distributer cap and another on the engine so u know which way it goes, remove the cap and using a peice of sand paper to clean the 4 pins inside the cap and the end piece of the rotor arm, put cap back on and try starting
I take a punch or chisel on mark on the block and dist. shaft, usually below #1 wire. Then find #1 wire on new dist. and install. Be sure the rotor button on new one is aligned same as old one. %26lt;remove dist. cap to be sure%26gt;
i doubt its the dizzy, and civics DONT have points, its CDI...
check your ignition switch, take all the keys off the keyring...
we have seen a few where the actual ignition is at fault thru dodgy worn keyways.. itll spin all day, until you release teh key, and then it fires... and yr car is 15yrs old, and has been started how many times?
and weve NEVER EVER changed a distributor... not ever on a civic... unless you mean the distributor cap...
in which case you pop the old one off, leave the leads attched, match them up side by side and only THEN swap the leads over...
I'm guessing on the civic i have got has the same problem and would like to know what is the best way to change the distributor. I have the part ready to install and obviously i do know that i need to remember which lead goes into which socket on the distributor end.
I want to do the replacement myself and i know that timing is involved but this is where i need advise. Do i change the distributor while the engine is cold, or do i get the engine up to operating temp, switch off and then change it? How do I set the timing up so i know that i have got the timing right?
Please note that i only have the basic of tools and I know the distributor can be adjusted before the nuts are tightened
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
my question is for you... how do you plan to get the engine to operating temps to change the dist if you can't get it started?! hehe... good thing is that a dist swap does NOT require any operating temperature to do. on those hondas, the biggest thing i see when people change the dist. is that they put it on backwards. look at yours before you take it off. look at the flat side of it and note the way it points. usually its towards the front of the car. thats a big one. the rotor on that can only go in one way, so don't be too worried about timing. it will find its way in to its groove when your lining it up to mount to the head. make sure you note the firing order, although its only 4, believe me, i've seen people screw it up. hopefully you're right and your dist is bad, but honestly, they really don't have a high failure rate. all they do is turn. good luck.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
Have you checked the clearance on the contact gaps? That's usually the source of that problem.
You should try changing the distributor cap first. They tend to 'crack and track'. Hold the new cap near the old one in the right position - there is usually a detent on the cap to make sure it goes back in the right position - swap the leads to the new cap one at a time into the same holes.
Worth that it's a cheap try and you would need the new cap anyway.
Roy
I agree with roy. First put a mark (Tip-ex or touch up paint stick) on the top of the distributer cap and another on the engine so u know which way it goes, remove the cap and using a peice of sand paper to clean the 4 pins inside the cap and the end piece of the rotor arm, put cap back on and try starting
I take a punch or chisel on mark on the block and dist. shaft, usually below #1 wire. Then find #1 wire on new dist. and install. Be sure the rotor button on new one is aligned same as old one. %26lt;remove dist. cap to be sure%26gt;
i doubt its the dizzy, and civics DONT have points, its CDI...
check your ignition switch, take all the keys off the keyring...
we have seen a few where the actual ignition is at fault thru dodgy worn keyways.. itll spin all day, until you release teh key, and then it fires... and yr car is 15yrs old, and has been started how many times?
and weve NEVER EVER changed a distributor... not ever on a civic... unless you mean the distributor cap...
in which case you pop the old one off, leave the leads attched, match them up side by side and only THEN swap the leads over...
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
I TRIE TO START IT IT IT WOULDNT START. DO U THINK SAND GOT IN IT ... AND HOW DO I CLEAN IT .I BOUGHT ALTERNATOR AND STARTER.. SHOULD I CHANGE THEM?.. PLEASE GIVE ME A COUPLE REASONS WHAT THE PROBLEM
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
check the obvious first you may have bent a shaft or jammed a gear take those apart and inspect them if the prop turns freely in your hand it should be okay and then see if you broke something else.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
it should start need more info does it tuen is it and inboard or o,b,
Why did you buy alternator %26amp; starter? Have you been having some kind of symptoms lately? What recent maintenance has been done to the motor.
Since you are there and we are not, we have to rely on you to describe the situation well enough to give you an answer that is more than a Wild-A$$-Guess.
Couple things I need to know.
When you turn the key, does the solenoid %26quot;click%26quot;?
If so, then does the starter motor spin?
If so, does it engage the flywheel and spin it at a normal rate of speed?
What kind of motor? year/make/horsepower? inboard/outboard/stern drive?
Exactly what part of the boat hit bottom?
What kind of bottom? sand/mud/rocks/other obstructions?
Did you inspect your hull and propeller for impact damage?
Need a lot more info than what you gave us.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
check the obvious first you may have bent a shaft or jammed a gear take those apart and inspect them if the prop turns freely in your hand it should be okay and then see if you broke something else.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
it should start need more info does it tuen is it and inboard or o,b,
Why did you buy alternator %26amp; starter? Have you been having some kind of symptoms lately? What recent maintenance has been done to the motor.
Since you are there and we are not, we have to rely on you to describe the situation well enough to give you an answer that is more than a Wild-A$$-Guess.
Couple things I need to know.
When you turn the key, does the solenoid %26quot;click%26quot;?
If so, then does the starter motor spin?
If so, does it engage the flywheel and spin it at a normal rate of speed?
What kind of motor? year/make/horsepower? inboard/outboard/stern drive?
Exactly what part of the boat hit bottom?
What kind of bottom? sand/mud/rocks/other obstructions?
Did you inspect your hull and propeller for impact damage?
Need a lot more info than what you gave us.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Hi Guys
I've got a Suzuki Bandit that has recently stopped starting from the starter motor, i can bump start it and it then runs fine until I need to start it again. The starter turns but not very quickly (am able to do this in gear so I guess Bandits have a throwout starter clutch or something similar).
I've changed the battery, can hear the solenoid clicking sound that appears fine and have tried another starter motor which makes no difference (although it was a second hand motor so might have had the same fault). Has anyone had a similar problem? Bad earth maybe (if so where do you start)?
Cheers
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Most likely the starter relay terminals need cleaning. Not sure where they are on a Bandit (usually behind the LHS side panel on most bikes) but follow the thick positive lead from the battery and it will go straight to it.
The starter circuit is simple so if you think logically it should be easy to find the problem.
The idea is that power passes from the battery +'ve terminal, to one terminal on the starter relay (marked B). The other terminal on the starter relay (marked M) is connected to the starter motor and of course the starter motor earths through the engine. When you press the starter button the relay energises and connects the 2 terminals sending battery voltage straight to the starter motor.
Logically there can only be 4 possibilitys (the chances of 2 duff starter motors is low). Dirty battery terminals, clean them up with a bit of fine sandpaper even if they already look clean, corroded starter relay terminals, a faulty starter relay (test by shorting the 2 termainls with a screwdriver, be prepared for a few sparks) or a poor starter motor earth.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
dirty terminals can cause havok. clean em off and u should be ok. i 2nd what spanner said.
make sure you have tight clean connections then try a new starter
Touch both of the large terminals of the starter solenoid (the battery positive cable goes to it) at the same time with a large screwdriver (careful of sparks).
If everything works - change the starter solenoid.
If no - could be a weak battery or wires not making a good connection.
Charge the battery, or jump it with a good battery.
Clean the battery terminals (wire brush / fine sand paper), the positive and negative cables, including where the negative cable touches the engine or frame.
I've got a Suzuki Bandit that has recently stopped starting from the starter motor, i can bump start it and it then runs fine until I need to start it again. The starter turns but not very quickly (am able to do this in gear so I guess Bandits have a throwout starter clutch or something similar).
I've changed the battery, can hear the solenoid clicking sound that appears fine and have tried another starter motor which makes no difference (although it was a second hand motor so might have had the same fault). Has anyone had a similar problem? Bad earth maybe (if so where do you start)?
Cheers
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Most likely the starter relay terminals need cleaning. Not sure where they are on a Bandit (usually behind the LHS side panel on most bikes) but follow the thick positive lead from the battery and it will go straight to it.
The starter circuit is simple so if you think logically it should be easy to find the problem.
The idea is that power passes from the battery +'ve terminal, to one terminal on the starter relay (marked B). The other terminal on the starter relay (marked M) is connected to the starter motor and of course the starter motor earths through the engine. When you press the starter button the relay energises and connects the 2 terminals sending battery voltage straight to the starter motor.
Logically there can only be 4 possibilitys (the chances of 2 duff starter motors is low). Dirty battery terminals, clean them up with a bit of fine sandpaper even if they already look clean, corroded starter relay terminals, a faulty starter relay (test by shorting the 2 termainls with a screwdriver, be prepared for a few sparks) or a poor starter motor earth.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
dirty terminals can cause havok. clean em off and u should be ok. i 2nd what spanner said.
make sure you have tight clean connections then try a new starter
Touch both of the large terminals of the starter solenoid (the battery positive cable goes to it) at the same time with a large screwdriver (careful of sparks).
If everything works - change the starter solenoid.
If no - could be a weak battery or wires not making a good connection.
Charge the battery, or jump it with a good battery.
Clean the battery terminals (wire brush / fine sand paper), the positive and negative cables, including where the negative cable touches the engine or frame.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
changed battery, starter switch, ignition, ignition coil
is the starter gears shot fly wheel or is the motor seized
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
Sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not throwing the drive. OR teeth are stripped off starter drive or flywheel. test solenoid and repair or replace if necessary.
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
does the starter engage into the flywheel??? if yes your motor may be seized
well take the top off the motor. put your hand on the flywheel see if it will turn with your hand. then if it turn's the motor is not locked up. then get your jumper cables out. red goes on + ground on - on the vechile. put the ground on a bolt on the outboard motor. there is a wire comeing from the starter. were that wire bolts to the starter. touch the hot cable to it. the starter should whirl over. if it just spark's the starter is bad
could need a shim to meet the flywheel.Im pretty shure u need
to shim chevys. as for that noise?
not sure of what to make of the noise. if it sounds like the starter motor is spinning without hitting anything, then your spindex is out. it isnt throwing the starter gear up into the flywheel, these operate by centrifugal force.
if it is throwing it into flywheel and motor is seized, you should hear a loud %26quot;clanck%26quot; and then nothing, or the worst grinding noise you ever heard
is the starter gears shot fly wheel or is the motor seized
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
Sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not throwing the drive. OR teeth are stripped off starter drive or flywheel. test solenoid and repair or replace if necessary.
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
does the starter engage into the flywheel??? if yes your motor may be seized
well take the top off the motor. put your hand on the flywheel see if it will turn with your hand. then if it turn's the motor is not locked up. then get your jumper cables out. red goes on + ground on - on the vechile. put the ground on a bolt on the outboard motor. there is a wire comeing from the starter. were that wire bolts to the starter. touch the hot cable to it. the starter should whirl over. if it just spark's the starter is bad
could need a shim to meet the flywheel.Im pretty shure u need
to shim chevys. as for that noise?
not sure of what to make of the noise. if it sounds like the starter motor is spinning without hitting anything, then your spindex is out. it isnt throwing the starter gear up into the flywheel, these operate by centrifugal force.
if it is throwing it into flywheel and motor is seized, you should hear a loud %26quot;clanck%26quot; and then nothing, or the worst grinding noise you ever heard
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL 5 speed manual trans. The car won't start. I can here the starter motor clicking, but the engine won't crank. I want to know if a clogged fuel filter can cause this problem. I'd rather change the fuel filter first (which has never been changed, ever) before I remove the hard to access starter motor. Tell me if this can cause the engine to not crank.
Also, if you have any diagrams or resources to change the fuel filter, i'd appreciate it.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
A clogged fuel filter could keep it from running but has nothing to do with the engine turning over. Check the battery first and make sure it is OK (make sure the post are clean also), if it is all right than check the starter.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
It could keep the engine from running ,but it wouldn't keep the engine from turning over , i would say that you have a weak battery ,loose battery cable or the starter is bad . If it's the starter you should be able to PUSH start the car by turning the key on with the transmission in third gear ,now hold the clutch in until the car is moving around 5 - 10 mph,then let off (up) of the clutch , when the engine starts push both clutch %26amp; brake in(down) to stop the car.
its the starter... its happened to three of my old cars. if it was fuel it would turn over but never start. it you hear a clicking noise and nothing happens its the starter. sorry it wasnt something easier but dont waste time and money with a fuel filter. i have a 87 chevy with the original filter they dont get that clogged.
your starter solenoid is probly shot!computer eye strain parameter
Also, if you have any diagrams or resources to change the fuel filter, i'd appreciate it.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
A clogged fuel filter could keep it from running but has nothing to do with the engine turning over. Check the battery first and make sure it is OK (make sure the post are clean also), if it is all right than check the starter.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
It could keep the engine from running ,but it wouldn't keep the engine from turning over , i would say that you have a weak battery ,loose battery cable or the starter is bad . If it's the starter you should be able to PUSH start the car by turning the key on with the transmission in third gear ,now hold the clutch in until the car is moving around 5 - 10 mph,then let off (up) of the clutch , when the engine starts push both clutch %26amp; brake in(down) to stop the car.
its the starter... its happened to three of my old cars. if it was fuel it would turn over but never start. it you hear a clicking noise and nothing happens its the starter. sorry it wasnt something easier but dont waste time and money with a fuel filter. i have a 87 chevy with the original filter they dont get that clogged.
your starter solenoid is probly shot!
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