right folks i have a ford escort and it wont start up at all, i turn the key and all the lights work,indicators etc but thats it, ive changed the starter motor its not that but when i turn the key on escorts you normally hear the fuel pump kick in just before they start on mine i dont heaer it, theres nothing at all and there is a small red light on the dash under the clock which lights up for about 5 seconds then goes out to tell you the cars ok, theres no light at all either ive checked fuses,fuel cut out switch etc nothing anyone any idea its as if theres no power in the car or something the battery is also fine as its been tested????????????
Escort 1998 zetec (uk)?
Test for power at the starter solonoid when you are turning the key. If no power, then check to make sure the neutral safety switch is working, the alarm is off, and that the ignition switch is working. There are too many things to choose from, these will be a good starting point.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
I know some people will either say %26quot;It starts, or it Doesnt.%26quot; Well, i want to know if there is an in-between, where the Starter or Starter Motor can %26quot;Weaken%26quot; until it WONT turn anymore, even with a Fine Battery.
Even if it was %26quot;Warm%26quot; out, my car would turn over distinctly %26quot;Twice,%26quot; THEN Start. SOmetimes, after driving, id turn the key, it would ALMOST catch, then turn over for 5-10 Seconds, THEN Start.. IF i didnt help it by pressing the Gas Pedal. This makes me think i need my Fuel Filter changed, and maybe/Probably a TUNE-UP.
This 199 Olds Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Ive been posting about IS an Oldsmobile, IS Super-Reliable, DOES need an Oil Change (I know, about to put 5W-30 in it for WINTER ONLY with NO LUCAS STABILIZER as i had 1 1qt Bottle in there for Summer and to Help).. and probably DOES have ORIGINAL PARTS on it, like:
FUEL FILTER
--STARTER-- and RELATED
SPARK PLUG WIRES
--YOU NAME IT.--
I gotta get its coolant FLUSHED too.. if it was MANUAL i could do it myself.
Now. I also was curious as to what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is.See, the pattern I described above Fairly commonly REPEATS itself! Alternator is good (Should i replace that too? Im thinking NO.. it PASSED a Charging system Test!/LOAD TEST, electronic matched to Temp and CCAs of Battery, Battery is 2 months old Interstate clone of Advance Auto Parts, Johnson Control Systems from October this year, OEM Replacement).. so IS IT POSSIBLE that the STARTER is weakening.. oh yes..
WHAT IS -IGNITION TIMING- and I HAVE HEARD THIS 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4 GM Engine from 1991 DID NOT HAVE A TIMING CHAIN OR BELT! Is this True?
Please shed some light.. im concerned, and YES i know I need to get the oil out of there.. it MAY be COLD this winter (was this morning) so is 5W-30 OIL for the WInter?
THANKS for the INSIGHT!!!
PS: IS it better to stick with OEM Plugs (and what are they,) or do i get the Bosch Platinum+4 on OEM Wires (AC Delco)?
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Ok you say the alternator passed test,ok to stay,the Starter motor may be doing what my last ford did and starting to short circuit,only did this if i tried to start car and it didn't fire on first try,if it didn't fire after second try the started motor would flatten the battery totally ,need 8+ hours recharge time, so maybe you need to get it tested,go to a dealer if you are confused about the spark plugs and ignition leads for them,information costs nothing to ask about,then purchase from where ever you want,you can also get the Timing belt,chain question answered as well, or telephone a dealers maintenance shop for the specifics for the make and model as they should know and as before information doesn't cost you much if you ask, oil 5w-30 is fine for the winter time,but change it every 3-6 months and the motor will appreciate it, timing or ignition timing is normally on engines with distributors,where the spark plug leads come from leading to the spark plug,usually the distributor has a clamp bolt at the base of it ,this is loosened just enough that the whole distributor can be turned about it's centre,either clockwise or anti-clockwise,causing the ignition timing to be retarded or advance as required,usually carried out with a strobe timing light,that flashes in time with number 1 spark plug and this should correspond to a marker on the crankshaft pulley at the end of the engine,this also normally has a fixed scale or pointer to align it too.
Coolant you say you could do it if was manual should not make any difference as the only extra thing is a transmission oil cooler added to the bottom of the radiator, this shouldn't stop you changing the coolant or flushing out the system,but remember to put the right antifreeze concentration back in,hope this helps some way,Cheers and good luck .
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Some people say it can, i hope they tell you what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is and if the engine DOES have a Timing CHain, because Wikipedia says it doesnt...
Even if it was %26quot;Warm%26quot; out, my car would turn over distinctly %26quot;Twice,%26quot; THEN Start. SOmetimes, after driving, id turn the key, it would ALMOST catch, then turn over for 5-10 Seconds, THEN Start.. IF i didnt help it by pressing the Gas Pedal. This makes me think i need my Fuel Filter changed, and maybe/Probably a TUNE-UP.
This 199 Olds Cutlass Calais 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Ive been posting about IS an Oldsmobile, IS Super-Reliable, DOES need an Oil Change (I know, about to put 5W-30 in it for WINTER ONLY with NO LUCAS STABILIZER as i had 1 1qt Bottle in there for Summer and to Help).. and probably DOES have ORIGINAL PARTS on it, like:
FUEL FILTER
--STARTER-- and RELATED
SPARK PLUG WIRES
--YOU NAME IT.--
I gotta get its coolant FLUSHED too.. if it was MANUAL i could do it myself.
Now. I also was curious as to what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is.See, the pattern I described above Fairly commonly REPEATS itself! Alternator is good (Should i replace that too? Im thinking NO.. it PASSED a Charging system Test!/LOAD TEST, electronic matched to Temp and CCAs of Battery, Battery is 2 months old Interstate clone of Advance Auto Parts, Johnson Control Systems from October this year, OEM Replacement).. so IS IT POSSIBLE that the STARTER is weakening.. oh yes..
WHAT IS -IGNITION TIMING- and I HAVE HEARD THIS 2.5L %26quot;Iron Duke%26quot; Tech4 GM Engine from 1991 DID NOT HAVE A TIMING CHAIN OR BELT! Is this True?
Please shed some light.. im concerned, and YES i know I need to get the oil out of there.. it MAY be COLD this winter (was this morning) so is 5W-30 OIL for the WInter?
THANKS for the INSIGHT!!!
PS: IS it better to stick with OEM Plugs (and what are they,) or do i get the Bosch Platinum+4 on OEM Wires (AC Delco)?
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Ok you say the alternator passed test,ok to stay,the Starter motor may be doing what my last ford did and starting to short circuit,only did this if i tried to start car and it didn't fire on first try,if it didn't fire after second try the started motor would flatten the battery totally ,need 8+ hours recharge time, so maybe you need to get it tested,go to a dealer if you are confused about the spark plugs and ignition leads for them,information costs nothing to ask about,then purchase from where ever you want,you can also get the Timing belt,chain question answered as well, or telephone a dealers maintenance shop for the specifics for the make and model as they should know and as before information doesn't cost you much if you ask, oil 5w-30 is fine for the winter time,but change it every 3-6 months and the motor will appreciate it, timing or ignition timing is normally on engines with distributors,where the spark plug leads come from leading to the spark plug,usually the distributor has a clamp bolt at the base of it ,this is loosened just enough that the whole distributor can be turned about it's centre,either clockwise or anti-clockwise,causing the ignition timing to be retarded or advance as required,usually carried out with a strobe timing light,that flashes in time with number 1 spark plug and this should correspond to a marker on the crankshaft pulley at the end of the engine,this also normally has a fixed scale or pointer to align it too.
Coolant you say you could do it if was manual should not make any difference as the only extra thing is a transmission oil cooler added to the bottom of the radiator, this shouldn't stop you changing the coolant or flushing out the system,but remember to put the right antifreeze concentration back in,hope this helps some way,Cheers and good luck .
Can my Starter be 'On the way Out'?
Some people say it can, i hope they tell you what %26quot;Ignition Timing%26quot; is and if the engine DOES have a Timing CHain, because Wikipedia says it doesnt...
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
it is having a hard time turning the engine,i changed the battery and starter relay.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
Remove the spark plugs from the engine and try turning the engine by hand with a wrench (to make sure your engine turns freely).
If the engine is OK, then remove the starter motor from the engine. Leave the starter motor cable hooked up. Attach a jumper cable from the body of the starter motor to a ground on the bike (motor mount bolt or negative battery terminal). Hold the starter motor in one hand and push the starter button. The starter motor should spin with enough force to almost jump out of your hand.
If it spins like a limp chicken, then it probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
How old is the bike? There are many moving parts that the starter has to get in motion. When is the last time it ran? If the engine is gunked up that is all the more strain for the stater.
See if this site helps you at all in the process.
http://www.indianmcinfo.com/Indian_stuff鈥?/a>
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
Remove the spark plugs from the engine and try turning the engine by hand with a wrench (to make sure your engine turns freely).
If the engine is OK, then remove the starter motor from the engine. Leave the starter motor cable hooked up. Attach a jumper cable from the body of the starter motor to a ground on the bike (motor mount bolt or negative battery terminal). Hold the starter motor in one hand and push the starter button. The starter motor should spin with enough force to almost jump out of your hand.
If it spins like a limp chicken, then it probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
How tohow to troubleshoot a motorcycle electrial strater motor?
How old is the bike? There are many moving parts that the starter has to get in motion. When is the last time it ran? If the engine is gunked up that is all the more strain for the stater.
See if this site helps you at all in the process.
http://www.indianmcinfo.com/Indian_stuff鈥?/a>
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
I have a Vauxhall Corsa B 1.0 12v. The car has been left standing for 3 months and will now not start. Originally I thought the battery had expired so I got a new one and this did not change matters. I then changed the starter motor for a new one, and the car is still not starting.
The starter motor turns the engine, but only by one or two rotations. While it is doing this, it makes a very loud squealing screeching sound (no it's not the fan belt making this sound).
Before the new (taken from a scrapped car) starter motor was installed it was checked to be working. I have run out of ideas of what could be wrong with it? Does anybody know?
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
Try turning the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer and make sure the engine is not locking up. Remove your starter and try turning the flywheel with a large screw driver. But it does sound like the engine bearings are shot or have rolled over which is even worse.
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
was car running and starting ok when parked. if not then you need to check your flywheel. if it was you may have a grounding problem or entertain the ideal that may be some one sabotaged it.
the engine is frozen in it's bearings.
Junk.
The starter motor turns the engine, but only by one or two rotations. While it is doing this, it makes a very loud squealing screeching sound (no it's not the fan belt making this sound).
Before the new (taken from a scrapped car) starter motor was installed it was checked to be working. I have run out of ideas of what could be wrong with it? Does anybody know?
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
Try turning the engine by hand with a socket on the harmonic balancer and make sure the engine is not locking up. Remove your starter and try turning the flywheel with a large screw driver. But it does sound like the engine bearings are shot or have rolled over which is even worse.
Vauxhall Corsa will not start?
was car running and starting ok when parked. if not then you need to check your flywheel. if it was you may have a grounding problem or entertain the ideal that may be some one sabotaged it.
the engine is frozen in it's bearings.
Junk.
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
my car is playing up, its so unreliable as alot of the time i try to start my car it dont start but all the lights and my sterio comes on then it will be alright for a few days -1 week then will play up and wont start so i have to be pushed to get it started eveytime which i assumed it was the starter motor and asked 4 machanics and they said yes we will change it, then i spoke to this 1 machanic and he said no it is not ur starter motor because everythings coming on and that it cud be the battery not giving enough power to start most of the machanics out there just wana take ur money they wud of happily changed my starter motor but its not that please help,
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
okay the 1 mechanic obviously hasn't got a clue. if all the lights come on but the engine wont turn every time its the starter motor. if all lights come on and engine turns very very slowly and all lights go dim it the battery. Test. if all lights come on but engine doesn't turn tap the starter a few times with a hammer usually this will unstick the solenoid or push down hill if it starts either way it is your starter. unfortunately there are many bad mechanics and its hard to find one who you can trust but good mechanics are out there like me lol.
if it is your starter take it off and take it too a part co store they will take your old one and reduce the cost of a new recon usually in stock. you really shouldn't be looking anymore than 拢120 fitted and to me even that's expensive. if only you lived in the stafford area. all the best
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
Hello
First of all has the Red light on the dashboard been glowing at all when the engine is running? If so your Altenator drive belt may need tightening.
Next time it will not start try starting it by Jump Leads,
Switch off both cars.
First connect Positive lead to other cars battery Positive Terminal
Second connect other end to your cars battery Positive Terminal
Thirdly connect Negative lead to other cars battery Negative Terminal
Lastly connect the other end to a good earth on your car like the lifting eye on the engine, NOT the Negative Terminal on your cars battery.
Start up other car
Let it run for at least 5 minutes
Try and start your car?
If it now starts your Stater Motor is OK
Leave your engine running and remove the Jump Leads
Now get a Volt Meter and take a reading across your battery and it should read 12 Volts, Get your friend to slowly rev up your engine and the reading should go up to about 14.6 Volts.
If you get that then your Charging system is OK
Switch Off your engine and the Volt Meter reading should not drop below 12 Volts
If it doesn't then your battery is OK
If all these check out OK then it could be your car just needs a service or the Ignition Coil is starting to play up.
If you get more than the 14.6 Volts then your Voltage Regulator is faulty (Part of the Altenator) and may have cooked the Battery so you may have to replace both you would then get less than 12 Volts when you switch off the engine.
If you were near me I could do that for you and it would cost you a pint.
Failing that join a recovery service and call them out next time it happens or if it is running take it to a battery sales shop and ask them to check it for you
Hope this helps
Andy CFish robin summer rentals
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
okay the 1 mechanic obviously hasn't got a clue. if all the lights come on but the engine wont turn every time its the starter motor. if all lights come on and engine turns very very slowly and all lights go dim it the battery. Test. if all lights come on but engine doesn't turn tap the starter a few times with a hammer usually this will unstick the solenoid or push down hill if it starts either way it is your starter. unfortunately there are many bad mechanics and its hard to find one who you can trust but good mechanics are out there like me lol.
if it is your starter take it off and take it too a part co store they will take your old one and reduce the cost of a new recon usually in stock. you really shouldn't be looking anymore than 拢120 fitted and to me even that's expensive. if only you lived in the stafford area. all the best
Vuaxhall corsa 1.4 16v?
Hello
First of all has the Red light on the dashboard been glowing at all when the engine is running? If so your Altenator drive belt may need tightening.
Next time it will not start try starting it by Jump Leads,
Switch off both cars.
First connect Positive lead to other cars battery Positive Terminal
Second connect other end to your cars battery Positive Terminal
Thirdly connect Negative lead to other cars battery Negative Terminal
Lastly connect the other end to a good earth on your car like the lifting eye on the engine, NOT the Negative Terminal on your cars battery.
Start up other car
Let it run for at least 5 minutes
Try and start your car?
If it now starts your Stater Motor is OK
Leave your engine running and remove the Jump Leads
Now get a Volt Meter and take a reading across your battery and it should read 12 Volts, Get your friend to slowly rev up your engine and the reading should go up to about 14.6 Volts.
If you get that then your Charging system is OK
Switch Off your engine and the Volt Meter reading should not drop below 12 Volts
If it doesn't then your battery is OK
If all these check out OK then it could be your car just needs a service or the Ignition Coil is starting to play up.
If you get more than the 14.6 Volts then your Voltage Regulator is faulty (Part of the Altenator) and may have cooked the Battery so you may have to replace both you would then get less than 12 Volts when you switch off the engine.
If you were near me I could do that for you and it would cost you a pint.
Failing that join a recovery service and call them out next time it happens or if it is running take it to a battery sales shop and ask them to check it for you
Hope this helps
Andy C
Car has no rpm power?
hi, i went to the garage today to change my starter motor, on my way there it was working fine, however when i left the garage, the car would only go to 2000rmp when i accelarate. so i took it back to the garage so they would sort it out. but they don't know what the problem could be.
i have a peugeot 306 hdi 1999
anyone has anyu ideas?
Car has no rpm power?
If it was fine when you got to the garage and then broken when you left they have caused the fault and should rectify it.
Most likely an electrical circuit has been disconnected/damaged/broken.
Car has no rpm power?
if it didnt do it before going they mess it up might have knock off a wire could have been easy and then always a possible they did it so you would spend more money
Not being sarcastic but get a new car, If you live in the UK the government will give you a Grand to scrap it! provided that you buy a greener car and then all car dealers are obliged to chop ANOTHER grand from your car. This scheme is aimed to re boost the car market, go greener and hey you get a new car cheap!
Hurry though because when this technique was attempted in Germany the money ran out after two months Get Yo' Skates On
Happy Car Shopping!!
i have a peugeot 306 hdi 1999
anyone has anyu ideas?
Car has no rpm power?
If it was fine when you got to the garage and then broken when you left they have caused the fault and should rectify it.
Most likely an electrical circuit has been disconnected/damaged/broken.
Car has no rpm power?
if it didnt do it before going they mess it up might have knock off a wire could have been easy and then always a possible they did it so you would spend more money
Not being sarcastic but get a new car, If you live in the UK the government will give you a Grand to scrap it! provided that you buy a greener car and then all car dealers are obliged to chop ANOTHER grand from your car. This scheme is aimed to re boost the car market, go greener and hey you get a new car cheap!
Hurry though because when this technique was attempted in Germany the money ran out after two months Get Yo' Skates On
Happy Car Shopping!!
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
I just put a new battery in my car this evening. My car, a 1999 Nissan Maxima, has 170,000 all with the factory battery. I could it was having a difficult time starting lately, so my first option was to change the battery.
Well, now it won't start at all. I turn the key and all I hear is a clicking noise. All of the interior lights are illuminated and the radio is working. Would a brand new battery need to be charged? is the issue with the starter motor? help would be much appreciated.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
The problem on the 1994 Nissan Maxima is the starter motor, it's can't turn the flywheel by few cause : worn solenoid, this will make starter motor not enough power to move forward the pinion gear to engage the flywheel ; worn starter motor brush, same as solenoid, but the brush is function as connector from battery to starter motor coil to make power to turn the starter motor pinion that will also turn the flywheel ; the starter motor pinion miss match with flywheel, this make pinion %26quot;teeth%26quot; doesn't meet the flywheel %26quot;teeth%26quot; so iys like nothing to turn by pinion. For miss match, just push the Maxima a bit with starter try to turn, mean to turn the flywhel and maybe can match the pinion. For solenoid and brush, need to replace those things. Those condition if when the ignition key being turn, there is a click sound and the dasboard light a bit dimmer. If no dimmering on dashboard light, please check the starter wire for loosing groung wire or not tight.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
on a new battery , there is caps are on the posts remove it should be ok to start
I know Nissan's have a lot of electrical problems. Sounds like the starter !
Clean the battery terminal and make sure it is tightly bolted on. If that does not work try to jump start the car. If that does not work return the battery and have them load test it. If the battery is fine and the connections are good then maybe the starter needs replacing.
try this put the car in nutraul foot on brake and it will start safty switch might be gone or if thats not it drop a line and ill give you a hand put in n and go trust me ...
you problem have a stARTER RELAY THAT IS NT WORKING OR THE SOLENOID IS BAD OR BENDIX BUT I WOULD SAGEST THAT YOU TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER MOTOR BEFORE just baying a new starter and check Thes things out for starter motor run some place around 200 to 250 depending on Ware you get them best of luck
Well, now it won't start at all. I turn the key and all I hear is a clicking noise. All of the interior lights are illuminated and the radio is working. Would a brand new battery need to be charged? is the issue with the starter motor? help would be much appreciated.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
The problem on the 1994 Nissan Maxima is the starter motor, it's can't turn the flywheel by few cause : worn solenoid, this will make starter motor not enough power to move forward the pinion gear to engage the flywheel ; worn starter motor brush, same as solenoid, but the brush is function as connector from battery to starter motor coil to make power to turn the starter motor pinion that will also turn the flywheel ; the starter motor pinion miss match with flywheel, this make pinion %26quot;teeth%26quot; doesn't meet the flywheel %26quot;teeth%26quot; so iys like nothing to turn by pinion. For miss match, just push the Maxima a bit with starter try to turn, mean to turn the flywhel and maybe can match the pinion. For solenoid and brush, need to replace those things. Those condition if when the ignition key being turn, there is a click sound and the dasboard light a bit dimmer. If no dimmering on dashboard light, please check the starter wire for loosing groung wire or not tight.
My car won't start, brand new battery, all interior lights work.?
on a new battery , there is caps are on the posts remove it should be ok to start
I know Nissan's have a lot of electrical problems. Sounds like the starter !
Clean the battery terminal and make sure it is tightly bolted on. If that does not work try to jump start the car. If that does not work return the battery and have them load test it. If the battery is fine and the connections are good then maybe the starter needs replacing.
try this put the car in nutraul foot on brake and it will start safty switch might be gone or if thats not it drop a line and ill give you a hand put in n and go trust me ...
you problem have a stARTER RELAY THAT IS NT WORKING OR THE SOLENOID IS BAD OR BENDIX BUT I WOULD SAGEST THAT YOU TEST FOR VOLTAGE AT THE STARTER MOTOR BEFORE just baying a new starter and check Thes things out for starter motor run some place around 200 to 250 depending on Ware you get them best of luck
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
HONDA CIVIC EX 1997 manual!
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
1. the starter has a flat spot internally.
2. your wiring to the starter could be bad or corroded.
3. if the above are %26quot;okay%26quot; then check the ignition switch.
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
1. the starter has a flat spot internally.
2. your wiring to the starter could be bad or corroded.
3. if the above are %26quot;okay%26quot; then check the ignition switch.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
I always disconnect the negative (only) cable from my battery (boat/outboard motor) when I bring it in. Yesterday, I connected the negative cable back to the post, tried to start and the starter would spin but (after MUCH investigation) I discovered that it was spinning in the wrong direction. I disconnected/reconnected the negative cables and, voila, it started spinning correctly. ?!?
This is an older motor (circa 1991/1992) so the starter has brushes... not rare earth magnets. I can find nothing online about it except one forum telling a user with the same problem that it can't happen. Any answers out there?
How does a starter motor change polarity?
It could happen if the brush plate moved or the magnets on the housing moved. Are U sure the ground or positive wasn't tight and just didn't spin fast enough to connect the Bendix??? Any way it fixed in self.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
happened to mine once...after a rebuild in which I had reversed the brushes in the brush holder. Starter would spin like nobody's business, but it took me awhile to figure out why the bendix wouldn't engage............
Believe it or not, a battery can reverse it's polarity. Only way I know of, though is for it to be completely discharged, and have a load still on it. Then after recharging normally, the polarity can just spontaneously reverse. Don't ask me how though.
This is an older motor (circa 1991/1992) so the starter has brushes... not rare earth magnets. I can find nothing online about it except one forum telling a user with the same problem that it can't happen. Any answers out there?
How does a starter motor change polarity?
It could happen if the brush plate moved or the magnets on the housing moved. Are U sure the ground or positive wasn't tight and just didn't spin fast enough to connect the Bendix??? Any way it fixed in self.
How does a starter motor change polarity?
happened to mine once...after a rebuild in which I had reversed the brushes in the brush holder. Starter would spin like nobody's business, but it took me awhile to figure out why the bendix wouldn't engage............
Believe it or not, a battery can reverse it's polarity. Only way I know of, though is for it to be completely discharged, and have a load still on it. Then after recharging normally, the polarity can just spontaneously reverse. Don't ask me how though.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor,
is it an easy job, can u instruct me please :)
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store鈥?/a> in here is a step by step guide to anything you want to do with your car just pay 拢20 and this wonderous book is yours or http://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-Workshop-鈥?/a> 拢15.99 from here.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
easy.....
1,disconnect battery
2,locate your starter,disconnect and wire connected to it,there may be 2 or 3,just remember where they go
3,remove starter mounting bolts.theres normally 3,sometimes theres a strengthening bracket at the rear.sometimes theres an earth point on one of the bolts.
4,refitting is reversal of removal...but make sure the locating dowels are in the right place so it fts perfectly...
5reconnect wires,connect battery and test...ps,youll have to put your radio code back in....but thats another question/answer.....
get a mechanic to give you a quote, if your asking for instructions, don't attempt itemail parameter order
is it an easy job, can u instruct me please :)
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/store鈥?/a> in here is a step by step guide to anything you want to do with your car just pay 拢20 and this wonderous book is yours or http://www.amazon.co.uk/Haynes-Workshop-鈥?/a> 拢15.99 from here.
I have a Ford KA 1.3 1998 manual, i need to change the starter motor?
easy.....
1,disconnect battery
2,locate your starter,disconnect and wire connected to it,there may be 2 or 3,just remember where they go
3,remove starter mounting bolts.theres normally 3,sometimes theres a strengthening bracket at the rear.sometimes theres an earth point on one of the bolts.
4,refitting is reversal of removal...but make sure the locating dowels are in the right place so it fts perfectly...
5reconnect wires,connect battery and test...ps,youll have to put your radio code back in....but thats another question/answer.....
get a mechanic to give you a quote, if your asking for instructions, don't attempt it
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
i have recently changed my starter motor on my 2001 Ford transit 2.4 330LWB HR but i think i have Wired it wrong please can some one give me a link to a free wiring diagram thankyou :)
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
I doubt you have wired it wrong,more like not earthed it properly.
Try putting an earth direct to it from the battery and see if that helps.
Are you sure the starter motor relay is not at fault?
Wiring diagram for a ford transit?
I doubt you have wired it wrong,more like not earthed it properly.
Try putting an earth direct to it from the battery and see if that helps.
Are you sure the starter motor relay is not at fault?
Corsa still won't start?
My Corsa (V reg, 1.2 GLS 16v) will not start. When i turn the key the starter motor turns but the engine won't fire. For a while it would start ok if the engine was warm but never if it was cold, but now it won't start off anything but a push start (bump).
So far I have changed the spark plugs, changed the starter motor and had a brand new battery, none of which has helped
Somebody please help!
Corsa still won't start?
I would have told you to replace all the things you have allready replaced AND one more thing.
Check into your fuel system. I bet you a dollar the fuel isn't getting to the intake manifold and that is why your car isn't starting. You might have a clogged fuel filter that isn't letting enough fuel pass through it. You might have a bad fuel pressure regulator which is not providing enough fuel pressure or you may have a dirty clogged up carb. Or if its fuel injected or has a throttle body injection system, the injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced. You may also have a bad fuel pump which isn't pumping any fuel at all. If so replace it. A good way to check if you car isn't starting because there is not fuel pressure is by taking off the air cleaner if you have a carb. and having someone turn the ignition key while you pour A LITTLE BIT of gasoline into the carb from the top. Don't put to much gas or it will flood the engine, and you will have an even harder time starting it.
If the fuel system isn't the problem then it should be a problem in your ignition system. Your alternator might be bad, its not your battery because you already replaced it. It might be the distributor, ignition module, ignition coil, or the spark plug cables. Its not the spark plugs themselves because you already replaced them.
Corsa still won't start?
did u try a new key switch
Trade it in for a Ferrari.
you'll need to check the fuel filter but I think its more likely to be the coil pack.
get your coil and all your leads changed - a coil not pumping out quite what it should will result in poor cold starting
it should cost a hundred quid or so to have it done for you - its not a big job on a corsa.
get your timing cheked also
does it make a quiet whirring noise?
have you tried pushing the car a few feet forward while in gear? it sounds like the forks in the starter motore arent lined up. Moving the car in gear with spin them round a bit, and hopefully line them up, enabling the motor to engage the engine etc.
Your vehicle could be suffering from good old %26quot;coil robbing%26quot; wherein there isn't enough juice in the battery to spin the engine and spark the plugs.
This can be caused by either a faulty battery, faulty starter, faulty coil pack, or a faulty igniton amp.
You could also have a fuelling problem such as a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, faulty coolant sensor etc...
Cheers
Geordie
It could be a fuel problem. Does the exhaust smell of petrol after cranking the engine?
So far I have changed the spark plugs, changed the starter motor and had a brand new battery, none of which has helped
Somebody please help!
Corsa still won't start?
I would have told you to replace all the things you have allready replaced AND one more thing.
Check into your fuel system. I bet you a dollar the fuel isn't getting to the intake manifold and that is why your car isn't starting. You might have a clogged fuel filter that isn't letting enough fuel pass through it. You might have a bad fuel pressure regulator which is not providing enough fuel pressure or you may have a dirty clogged up carb. Or if its fuel injected or has a throttle body injection system, the injectors may need to be cleaned or replaced. You may also have a bad fuel pump which isn't pumping any fuel at all. If so replace it. A good way to check if you car isn't starting because there is not fuel pressure is by taking off the air cleaner if you have a carb. and having someone turn the ignition key while you pour A LITTLE BIT of gasoline into the carb from the top. Don't put to much gas or it will flood the engine, and you will have an even harder time starting it.
If the fuel system isn't the problem then it should be a problem in your ignition system. Your alternator might be bad, its not your battery because you already replaced it. It might be the distributor, ignition module, ignition coil, or the spark plug cables. Its not the spark plugs themselves because you already replaced them.
Corsa still won't start?
did u try a new key switch
Trade it in for a Ferrari.
you'll need to check the fuel filter but I think its more likely to be the coil pack.
get your coil and all your leads changed - a coil not pumping out quite what it should will result in poor cold starting
it should cost a hundred quid or so to have it done for you - its not a big job on a corsa.
get your timing cheked also
does it make a quiet whirring noise?
have you tried pushing the car a few feet forward while in gear? it sounds like the forks in the starter motore arent lined up. Moving the car in gear with spin them round a bit, and hopefully line them up, enabling the motor to engage the engine etc.
Your vehicle could be suffering from good old %26quot;coil robbing%26quot; wherein there isn't enough juice in the battery to spin the engine and spark the plugs.
This can be caused by either a faulty battery, faulty starter, faulty coil pack, or a faulty igniton amp.
You could also have a fuelling problem such as a weak fuel pump, clogged filter, faulty coolant sensor etc...
Cheers
Geordie
It could be a fuel problem. Does the exhaust smell of petrol after cranking the engine?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
It worked fine yesterday, it feels like a loose connection because the battery is fine and when the starter motor does turn over it starts fine. It's one year old and the battery terminals are fine.
Also just got it back from bike shop two days ago after getting a rear tyre changed.....
Thanks for any help
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
try using WD40 on the starter switch and give the insides a good clean....check the power of the battery, it might be knackerd thus not have just enough power to turn the engine...when you press the starter does your headlight go out completely? hope this helps! wot bike you got?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
Is it an older Yamaha Virago? It was a common problem.
The problem is the switch behind your starter button. Its corroded or burned.
The switch can be dismantled and cleaned with contact cleaner but there is a tiny spring inside that tends to jump out and hide.
Corrosion can cause the tiny ttits that make it work to burn, in which case, the switch is shot.
The switch itself cannot be replaced, the entire switch box and wiring, must be.
Also just got it back from bike shop two days ago after getting a rear tyre changed.....
Thanks for any help
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
try using WD40 on the starter switch and give the insides a good clean....check the power of the battery, it might be knackerd thus not have just enough power to turn the engine...when you press the starter does your headlight go out completely? hope this helps! wot bike you got?
My bike hesitates when starting and only turns over when releasing the start button. What should I check?
Is it an older Yamaha Virago? It was a common problem.
The problem is the switch behind your starter button. Its corroded or burned.
The switch can be dismantled and cleaned with contact cleaner but there is a tiny spring inside that tends to jump out and hide.
Corrosion can cause the tiny ttits that make it work to burn, in which case, the switch is shot.
The switch itself cannot be replaced, the entire switch box and wiring, must be.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
i woke up one morning a switch my kitchen light on and it buzzed and it has been buzzing since ive changed the starter motor and the tube its self but that hasent sorted it nothing has so can you answer please
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
You don't say what size or type or what it's fixed to?? The metal batten is probably resonating with the ballast, tighten the fixing screws inside, remove and put a slight twist in the cover, then refit.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
The Transformer is humming !!
the casing might be loose see if tightening it helps
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
You don't say what size or type or what it's fixed to?? The metal batten is probably resonating with the ballast, tighten the fixing screws inside, remove and put a slight twist in the cover, then refit.
Why dose my fluresent tube buzz when i switch it on?
The Transformer is humming !!
the casing might be loose see if tightening it helps
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
Hi All, I hope someone can help me here as I have almost lost hope with my Peugout 306. One problem after the other. In the Last two months I have had a new clutch, starter motor, driveshaft, wishbone. A few days ago I topped my car up with too much engine oil which resulted in white smoke on the M40! The following day I drained all the oil and put some back in upto the dipstick level. When I drove the car it began to judder in all gears. An ex mechanic told me I need the spark plugs changed which I did today, but they had no effect on the juddering. The mechanic also told me my PAS belt and fan belt are almost perished which need replacing. My car also makes a constant emabrassing squeachy/screaming noise. This is my first car and love it to bits, I would be much appreciated if someone can guide me as to how I can get rid of these problems.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
The squeachy noise is the fan the drive belts either the PAS or the alternator. Change them and make sure the belt's are correctly adjusted.
The 306 has a known problem with the coil pack, its located on top of the engine on the r/h side. Over time the heat from the engine results in a break down of the insulation on the pack.
Strange that it only started when you overfilled the engine oil.
If I was you I would start from the spark plugs, remove them, clean them and check the gap on them.
Then replace the HT leads, again over time they can break down through the heat of the engine and after removing them to change the spark plugs you and aggravate there condition.
If this does not cure the problem then I would try your local scrap yard for a replacement coil pack.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
I have a Nissan Micra which used to bunny hop along the road. The engine also used to keep cutting out. It is an automatic. Eventually a test showed that it was an air sensor on the throttle housing unit and the whole unit had to be replaced.
You may need to get the car thoroughly overhauled by a reputable garage (I was towed to one by automania) and they can fully investigate and give you a diagnosis. Won't be cheap though. Hope this helps.
I haven't delved under the bonnet of a car in years but remember:----
The screechy screaming noise sounds like a fan belt is slipping.
The juddering noise if it happens when you turn the engine off and it seems like it wants to keep going is called pinking or pre-ignition.
The juddering would most be due to your clutch plate which may be contaminated with oil or grease. Therefore you are not getting full contact with the flywheel when driven.
To make sure you don't have an ignition misfire, install new spark plug wires if they've never been changed. Also a new distributor cap and rotor if they have over 30000 miles on them and your vehicle is so equipped.
Ok, a bit surprised your %26quot;ex mechanic%26quot; did not advise you to clear your engine breather. Pressure builds in the crankcase during normal operation, this pressure is vented through the engine breather pipe. High pressure would cause the problem you discribe. Over filling your engine with oil can block this pipe. Usually it is a pipe leading from your air filter housing down to you engine block. Remove the pipe and clear it, you need to also clear the metal pipe attached to the block. As far as the squealing, you belts need replacing.
Jez.
Hi
The screeching noise is almost definitely the drivebelt slipping, and unfortunately, I have a gut feeling you need to have a cylinder compression test carried out because it sounds as though you've popped the head gasket (unless of course you didn't gap the plugs properly, but I doubt it).
Very best regards
Geordie
the screach noise could be your fan belt or water pump, as for the juddering did you replace your HT leads properly, did you check the space on the bottom of your plugs (there should be a small gap about 2-3 mm), without looking at your car its hard to tell the problems.
the noise is likely to be the fan belt.
Soz mate but sounds like it's ready for the scrappers!loss of control in hands cope with a cheating
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
The squeachy noise is the fan the drive belts either the PAS or the alternator. Change them and make sure the belt's are correctly adjusted.
The 306 has a known problem with the coil pack, its located on top of the engine on the r/h side. Over time the heat from the engine results in a break down of the insulation on the pack.
Strange that it only started when you overfilled the engine oil.
If I was you I would start from the spark plugs, remove them, clean them and check the gap on them.
Then replace the HT leads, again over time they can break down through the heat of the engine and after removing them to change the spark plugs you and aggravate there condition.
If this does not cure the problem then I would try your local scrap yard for a replacement coil pack.
Car Juddering after changing Spark Plugs?
I have a Nissan Micra which used to bunny hop along the road. The engine also used to keep cutting out. It is an automatic. Eventually a test showed that it was an air sensor on the throttle housing unit and the whole unit had to be replaced.
You may need to get the car thoroughly overhauled by a reputable garage (I was towed to one by automania) and they can fully investigate and give you a diagnosis. Won't be cheap though. Hope this helps.
I haven't delved under the bonnet of a car in years but remember:----
The screechy screaming noise sounds like a fan belt is slipping.
The juddering noise if it happens when you turn the engine off and it seems like it wants to keep going is called pinking or pre-ignition.
The juddering would most be due to your clutch plate which may be contaminated with oil or grease. Therefore you are not getting full contact with the flywheel when driven.
To make sure you don't have an ignition misfire, install new spark plug wires if they've never been changed. Also a new distributor cap and rotor if they have over 30000 miles on them and your vehicle is so equipped.
Ok, a bit surprised your %26quot;ex mechanic%26quot; did not advise you to clear your engine breather. Pressure builds in the crankcase during normal operation, this pressure is vented through the engine breather pipe. High pressure would cause the problem you discribe. Over filling your engine with oil can block this pipe. Usually it is a pipe leading from your air filter housing down to you engine block. Remove the pipe and clear it, you need to also clear the metal pipe attached to the block. As far as the squealing, you belts need replacing.
Jez.
Hi
The screeching noise is almost definitely the drivebelt slipping, and unfortunately, I have a gut feeling you need to have a cylinder compression test carried out because it sounds as though you've popped the head gasket (unless of course you didn't gap the plugs properly, but I doubt it).
Very best regards
Geordie
the screach noise could be your fan belt or water pump, as for the juddering did you replace your HT leads properly, did you check the space on the bottom of your plugs (there should be a small gap about 2-3 mm), without looking at your car its hard to tell the problems.
the noise is likely to be the fan belt.
Soz mate but sounds like it's ready for the scrappers!
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
I have a 95 Honda Civic coupe which I have had for around 2 months now. Recently I have been having problems with the car starting up. Starter motor would tick over but the engine just refuses to fire up. I remember having this problem on my previous car and had the distributor changed which resolved the problem.
I'm guessing on the civic i have got has the same problem and would like to know what is the best way to change the distributor. I have the part ready to install and obviously i do know that i need to remember which lead goes into which socket on the distributor end.
I want to do the replacement myself and i know that timing is involved but this is where i need advise. Do i change the distributor while the engine is cold, or do i get the engine up to operating temp, switch off and then change it? How do I set the timing up so i know that i have got the timing right?
Please note that i only have the basic of tools and I know the distributor can be adjusted before the nuts are tightened
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
my question is for you... how do you plan to get the engine to operating temps to change the dist if you can't get it started?! hehe... good thing is that a dist swap does NOT require any operating temperature to do. on those hondas, the biggest thing i see when people change the dist. is that they put it on backwards. look at yours before you take it off. look at the flat side of it and note the way it points. usually its towards the front of the car. thats a big one. the rotor on that can only go in one way, so don't be too worried about timing. it will find its way in to its groove when your lining it up to mount to the head. make sure you note the firing order, although its only 4, believe me, i've seen people screw it up. hopefully you're right and your dist is bad, but honestly, they really don't have a high failure rate. all they do is turn. good luck.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
Have you checked the clearance on the contact gaps? That's usually the source of that problem.
You should try changing the distributor cap first. They tend to 'crack and track'. Hold the new cap near the old one in the right position - there is usually a detent on the cap to make sure it goes back in the right position - swap the leads to the new cap one at a time into the same holes.
Worth that it's a cheap try and you would need the new cap anyway.
Roy
I agree with roy. First put a mark (Tip-ex or touch up paint stick) on the top of the distributer cap and another on the engine so u know which way it goes, remove the cap and using a peice of sand paper to clean the 4 pins inside the cap and the end piece of the rotor arm, put cap back on and try starting
I take a punch or chisel on mark on the block and dist. shaft, usually below #1 wire. Then find #1 wire on new dist. and install. Be sure the rotor button on new one is aligned same as old one. %26lt;remove dist. cap to be sure%26gt;
i doubt its the dizzy, and civics DONT have points, its CDI...
check your ignition switch, take all the keys off the keyring...
we have seen a few where the actual ignition is at fault thru dodgy worn keyways.. itll spin all day, until you release teh key, and then it fires... and yr car is 15yrs old, and has been started how many times?
and weve NEVER EVER changed a distributor... not ever on a civic... unless you mean the distributor cap...
in which case you pop the old one off, leave the leads attched, match them up side by side and only THEN swap the leads over...
I'm guessing on the civic i have got has the same problem and would like to know what is the best way to change the distributor. I have the part ready to install and obviously i do know that i need to remember which lead goes into which socket on the distributor end.
I want to do the replacement myself and i know that timing is involved but this is where i need advise. Do i change the distributor while the engine is cold, or do i get the engine up to operating temp, switch off and then change it? How do I set the timing up so i know that i have got the timing right?
Please note that i only have the basic of tools and I know the distributor can be adjusted before the nuts are tightened
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
my question is for you... how do you plan to get the engine to operating temps to change the dist if you can't get it started?! hehe... good thing is that a dist swap does NOT require any operating temperature to do. on those hondas, the biggest thing i see when people change the dist. is that they put it on backwards. look at yours before you take it off. look at the flat side of it and note the way it points. usually its towards the front of the car. thats a big one. the rotor on that can only go in one way, so don't be too worried about timing. it will find its way in to its groove when your lining it up to mount to the head. make sure you note the firing order, although its only 4, believe me, i've seen people screw it up. hopefully you're right and your dist is bad, but honestly, they really don't have a high failure rate. all they do is turn. good luck.
Need Advice on changing a distributor please?
Have you checked the clearance on the contact gaps? That's usually the source of that problem.
You should try changing the distributor cap first. They tend to 'crack and track'. Hold the new cap near the old one in the right position - there is usually a detent on the cap to make sure it goes back in the right position - swap the leads to the new cap one at a time into the same holes.
Worth that it's a cheap try and you would need the new cap anyway.
Roy
I agree with roy. First put a mark (Tip-ex or touch up paint stick) on the top of the distributer cap and another on the engine so u know which way it goes, remove the cap and using a peice of sand paper to clean the 4 pins inside the cap and the end piece of the rotor arm, put cap back on and try starting
I take a punch or chisel on mark on the block and dist. shaft, usually below #1 wire. Then find #1 wire on new dist. and install. Be sure the rotor button on new one is aligned same as old one. %26lt;remove dist. cap to be sure%26gt;
i doubt its the dizzy, and civics DONT have points, its CDI...
check your ignition switch, take all the keys off the keyring...
we have seen a few where the actual ignition is at fault thru dodgy worn keyways.. itll spin all day, until you release teh key, and then it fires... and yr car is 15yrs old, and has been started how many times?
and weve NEVER EVER changed a distributor... not ever on a civic... unless you mean the distributor cap...
in which case you pop the old one off, leave the leads attched, match them up side by side and only THEN swap the leads over...
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
I TRIE TO START IT IT IT WOULDNT START. DO U THINK SAND GOT IN IT ... AND HOW DO I CLEAN IT .I BOUGHT ALTERNATOR AND STARTER.. SHOULD I CHANGE THEM?.. PLEASE GIVE ME A COUPLE REASONS WHAT THE PROBLEM
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
check the obvious first you may have bent a shaft or jammed a gear take those apart and inspect them if the prop turns freely in your hand it should be okay and then see if you broke something else.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
it should start need more info does it tuen is it and inboard or o,b,
Why did you buy alternator %26amp; starter? Have you been having some kind of symptoms lately? What recent maintenance has been done to the motor.
Since you are there and we are not, we have to rely on you to describe the situation well enough to give you an answer that is more than a Wild-A$$-Guess.
Couple things I need to know.
When you turn the key, does the solenoid %26quot;click%26quot;?
If so, then does the starter motor spin?
If so, does it engage the flywheel and spin it at a normal rate of speed?
What kind of motor? year/make/horsepower? inboard/outboard/stern drive?
Exactly what part of the boat hit bottom?
What kind of bottom? sand/mud/rocks/other obstructions?
Did you inspect your hull and propeller for impact damage?
Need a lot more info than what you gave us.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
check the obvious first you may have bent a shaft or jammed a gear take those apart and inspect them if the prop turns freely in your hand it should be okay and then see if you broke something else.
I took my boat out .Went into shallow water . Hit the bottom motor will not start. What do u think it is?
it should start need more info does it tuen is it and inboard or o,b,
Why did you buy alternator %26amp; starter? Have you been having some kind of symptoms lately? What recent maintenance has been done to the motor.
Since you are there and we are not, we have to rely on you to describe the situation well enough to give you an answer that is more than a Wild-A$$-Guess.
Couple things I need to know.
When you turn the key, does the solenoid %26quot;click%26quot;?
If so, then does the starter motor spin?
If so, does it engage the flywheel and spin it at a normal rate of speed?
What kind of motor? year/make/horsepower? inboard/outboard/stern drive?
Exactly what part of the boat hit bottom?
What kind of bottom? sand/mud/rocks/other obstructions?
Did you inspect your hull and propeller for impact damage?
Need a lot more info than what you gave us.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Hi Guys
I've got a Suzuki Bandit that has recently stopped starting from the starter motor, i can bump start it and it then runs fine until I need to start it again. The starter turns but not very quickly (am able to do this in gear so I guess Bandits have a throwout starter clutch or something similar).
I've changed the battery, can hear the solenoid clicking sound that appears fine and have tried another starter motor which makes no difference (although it was a second hand motor so might have had the same fault). Has anyone had a similar problem? Bad earth maybe (if so where do you start)?
Cheers
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Most likely the starter relay terminals need cleaning. Not sure where they are on a Bandit (usually behind the LHS side panel on most bikes) but follow the thick positive lead from the battery and it will go straight to it.
The starter circuit is simple so if you think logically it should be easy to find the problem.
The idea is that power passes from the battery +'ve terminal, to one terminal on the starter relay (marked B). The other terminal on the starter relay (marked M) is connected to the starter motor and of course the starter motor earths through the engine. When you press the starter button the relay energises and connects the 2 terminals sending battery voltage straight to the starter motor.
Logically there can only be 4 possibilitys (the chances of 2 duff starter motors is low). Dirty battery terminals, clean them up with a bit of fine sandpaper even if they already look clean, corroded starter relay terminals, a faulty starter relay (test by shorting the 2 termainls with a screwdriver, be prepared for a few sparks) or a poor starter motor earth.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
dirty terminals can cause havok. clean em off and u should be ok. i 2nd what spanner said.
make sure you have tight clean connections then try a new starter
Touch both of the large terminals of the starter solenoid (the battery positive cable goes to it) at the same time with a large screwdriver (careful of sparks).
If everything works - change the starter solenoid.
If no - could be a weak battery or wires not making a good connection.
Charge the battery, or jump it with a good battery.
Clean the battery terminals (wire brush / fine sand paper), the positive and negative cables, including where the negative cable touches the engine or frame.
I've got a Suzuki Bandit that has recently stopped starting from the starter motor, i can bump start it and it then runs fine until I need to start it again. The starter turns but not very quickly (am able to do this in gear so I guess Bandits have a throwout starter clutch or something similar).
I've changed the battery, can hear the solenoid clicking sound that appears fine and have tried another starter motor which makes no difference (although it was a second hand motor so might have had the same fault). Has anyone had a similar problem? Bad earth maybe (if so where do you start)?
Cheers
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
Most likely the starter relay terminals need cleaning. Not sure where they are on a Bandit (usually behind the LHS side panel on most bikes) but follow the thick positive lead from the battery and it will go straight to it.
The starter circuit is simple so if you think logically it should be easy to find the problem.
The idea is that power passes from the battery +'ve terminal, to one terminal on the starter relay (marked B). The other terminal on the starter relay (marked M) is connected to the starter motor and of course the starter motor earths through the engine. When you press the starter button the relay energises and connects the 2 terminals sending battery voltage straight to the starter motor.
Logically there can only be 4 possibilitys (the chances of 2 duff starter motors is low). Dirty battery terminals, clean them up with a bit of fine sandpaper even if they already look clean, corroded starter relay terminals, a faulty starter relay (test by shorting the 2 termainls with a screwdriver, be prepared for a few sparks) or a poor starter motor earth.
Motorcycle Starter Problem?
dirty terminals can cause havok. clean em off and u should be ok. i 2nd what spanner said.
make sure you have tight clean connections then try a new starter
Touch both of the large terminals of the starter solenoid (the battery positive cable goes to it) at the same time with a large screwdriver (careful of sparks).
If everything works - change the starter solenoid.
If no - could be a weak battery or wires not making a good connection.
Charge the battery, or jump it with a good battery.
Clean the battery terminals (wire brush / fine sand paper), the positive and negative cables, including where the negative cable touches the engine or frame.
Thursday, September 15, 2011
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
changed battery, starter switch, ignition, ignition coil
is the starter gears shot fly wheel or is the motor seized
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
Sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not throwing the drive. OR teeth are stripped off starter drive or flywheel. test solenoid and repair or replace if necessary.
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
does the starter engage into the flywheel??? if yes your motor may be seized
well take the top off the motor. put your hand on the flywheel see if it will turn with your hand. then if it turn's the motor is not locked up. then get your jumper cables out. red goes on + ground on - on the vechile. put the ground on a bolt on the outboard motor. there is a wire comeing from the starter. were that wire bolts to the starter. touch the hot cable to it. the starter should whirl over. if it just spark's the starter is bad
could need a shim to meet the flywheel.Im pretty shure u need
to shim chevys. as for that noise?
not sure of what to make of the noise. if it sounds like the starter motor is spinning without hitting anything, then your spindex is out. it isnt throwing the starter gear up into the flywheel, these operate by centrifugal force.
if it is throwing it into flywheel and motor is seized, you should hear a loud %26quot;clanck%26quot; and then nothing, or the worst grinding noise you ever heard
is the starter gears shot fly wheel or is the motor seized
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
Sounds like the starter motor is spinning but the solenoid is not throwing the drive. OR teeth are stripped off starter drive or flywheel. test solenoid and repair or replace if necessary.
What does it mean when starter on boat sounds like mmmmmmmmgmrrmmm and doest turn over?
does the starter engage into the flywheel??? if yes your motor may be seized
well take the top off the motor. put your hand on the flywheel see if it will turn with your hand. then if it turn's the motor is not locked up. then get your jumper cables out. red goes on + ground on - on the vechile. put the ground on a bolt on the outboard motor. there is a wire comeing from the starter. were that wire bolts to the starter. touch the hot cable to it. the starter should whirl over. if it just spark's the starter is bad
could need a shim to meet the flywheel.Im pretty shure u need
to shim chevys. as for that noise?
not sure of what to make of the noise. if it sounds like the starter motor is spinning without hitting anything, then your spindex is out. it isnt throwing the starter gear up into the flywheel, these operate by centrifugal force.
if it is throwing it into flywheel and motor is seized, you should hear a loud %26quot;clanck%26quot; and then nothing, or the worst grinding noise you ever heard
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent GL 5 speed manual trans. The car won't start. I can here the starter motor clicking, but the engine won't crank. I want to know if a clogged fuel filter can cause this problem. I'd rather change the fuel filter first (which has never been changed, ever) before I remove the hard to access starter motor. Tell me if this can cause the engine to not crank.
Also, if you have any diagrams or resources to change the fuel filter, i'd appreciate it.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
A clogged fuel filter could keep it from running but has nothing to do with the engine turning over. Check the battery first and make sure it is OK (make sure the post are clean also), if it is all right than check the starter.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
It could keep the engine from running ,but it wouldn't keep the engine from turning over , i would say that you have a weak battery ,loose battery cable or the starter is bad . If it's the starter you should be able to PUSH start the car by turning the key on with the transmission in third gear ,now hold the clutch in until the car is moving around 5 - 10 mph,then let off (up) of the clutch , when the engine starts push both clutch %26amp; brake in(down) to stop the car.
its the starter... its happened to three of my old cars. if it was fuel it would turn over but never start. it you hear a clicking noise and nothing happens its the starter. sorry it wasnt something easier but dont waste time and money with a fuel filter. i have a 87 chevy with the original filter they dont get that clogged.
your starter solenoid is probly shot!computer eye strain parameter
Also, if you have any diagrams or resources to change the fuel filter, i'd appreciate it.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
A clogged fuel filter could keep it from running but has nothing to do with the engine turning over. Check the battery first and make sure it is OK (make sure the post are clean also), if it is all right than check the starter.
Does a clogged fuel filter prevent a Hyundai from Starting?
It could keep the engine from running ,but it wouldn't keep the engine from turning over , i would say that you have a weak battery ,loose battery cable or the starter is bad . If it's the starter you should be able to PUSH start the car by turning the key on with the transmission in third gear ,now hold the clutch in until the car is moving around 5 - 10 mph,then let off (up) of the clutch , when the engine starts push both clutch %26amp; brake in(down) to stop the car.
its the starter... its happened to three of my old cars. if it was fuel it would turn over but never start. it you hear a clicking noise and nothing happens its the starter. sorry it wasnt something easier but dont waste time and money with a fuel filter. i have a 87 chevy with the original filter they dont get that clogged.
your starter solenoid is probly shot!
I changed my motor out of a 79 Regal ( 301 ) to a Chevy ( 350 ) out of a 86 Caprice i need wiring help?
The starter from the 350 has 5 wires from it how many will I actual use and where. The altenator wires are in the harness for the Regal. But the altenator wires are attcahed to the starter / I need help wireing the hole thing up whats neccessary to get it to work properly.
I changed my motor out of a 79 Regal ( 301 ) to a Chevy ( 350 ) out of a 86 Caprice i need wiring help?
stick to the way wires were in the car you're working. don't worry how the wires were in the other car.
if i read you right you're working on the regal. so if the regal only had 1,2,or 3 wires going to the starter then that's how you do it.
I changed my motor out of a 79 Regal ( 301 ) to a Chevy ( 350 ) out of a 86 Caprice i need wiring help?
stick to the way wires were in the car you're working. don't worry how the wires were in the other car.
if i read you right you're working on the regal. so if the regal only had 1,2,or 3 wires going to the starter then that's how you do it.
Alternator, drive belt or short circut?
My rover 414 starts with a jump and then drives very well. when I turn on the headlights the dashboard lights go dim. After stopping the car, it sometimes starts and sometimes does not anymore . Then I would have to jump start it again. The battery is new. I have changed the voltage regulators in the alternator and even changed the starter motor. Does anyone know where the problem lies?
Alternator, drive belt or short circut?
my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop..
Alternator, drive belt or short circut?
check the output voltage of the alternator. should be between 12 and 15 volts
if you are a backyard mechanic you should take to a shop
Alternator, drive belt or short circut?
my answer is try to check it out first on auto repair shop..
Alternator, drive belt or short circut?
check the output voltage of the alternator. should be between 12 and 15 volts
if you are a backyard mechanic you should take to a shop
Escort 1998 zetec wiont star (uk)?
hi people i have a ford escort 1998 zetec and been having trouble with it as it wont start up i think theres an electrical fault somewhere,my alternator was on its way out so replaced it along with a new battery but went to start the car and it was dead i have dash lights indicators all work etc but thats it,when i turn the key i dont hear the fuel pump kick in as you normally do and the small red light by the clock isnt displaying anything at all as if its simply not working,ive tried changing the fuse box,fuses,relays also changed the starter motor but nothing,before i changed the alternator and battery the car started up fine,would it be that i left the car with no battery on it all night as i took the old one off and didnt put the new one on the next day turned the key and ive ended up with this the battery was tested its fine,obviously i have a fault somewhere but all i did was change the alternator and battery all the connections have been checked everything seems fine help my email is wayne14280@email2me.net i would be greatful if anyone could email me with some help????
Escort 1998 zetec wiont star (uk)?
If your sure your battery and cables are good, you may have burned out a %26quot;fusible link%26quot; while installing the new battery and alternator. A fusible link is a fuse integrated into one or more of the wires leading from the battery to the fusebox etc. Look up your vehicle parts info and search for fusible link and also check a repair manual.
Escort 1998 zetec wiont star (uk)?
I'm a Little confused, does the battery go day after the car sits overnight or it won't crank over at all?
If the battery goes dead after it sits you need to check for a short in the system if it won't crank at all, check the wires on the starter to make sure you have them all on the right terminals. Does the security light flash? If so you activated the anti-theft which cuts power to the fuel pump and computer, and some cases will also cut power to the starter
you can email via my profile
Escort 1998 zetec wiont star (uk)?
If your sure your battery and cables are good, you may have burned out a %26quot;fusible link%26quot; while installing the new battery and alternator. A fusible link is a fuse integrated into one or more of the wires leading from the battery to the fusebox etc. Look up your vehicle parts info and search for fusible link and also check a repair manual.
Escort 1998 zetec wiont star (uk)?
I'm a Little confused, does the battery go day after the car sits overnight or it won't crank over at all?
If the battery goes dead after it sits you need to check for a short in the system if it won't crank at all, check the wires on the starter to make sure you have them all on the right terminals. Does the security light flash? If so you activated the anti-theft which cuts power to the fuel pump and computer, and some cases will also cut power to the starter
you can email via my profile
Carburretor Venturi stuck?
Hi all.
Well firstly the biggest problem with my car is its hard to start and the starter motor doesnt turn over the engine when hot at operational temperatures.
2ndly its runing far way to rich coz even after retarding completely from the dizzy the spark plugs are dark black in color.
3rdly my venturi is stuck it doesnt even rotate and on applying force through screw driver its face breaks down as its of brass or something.
My carb is of civic 95 D15B3 1st generation civic engine.
I want to know whether i need to screw the venturi to lean it or i need to unscrew it for leaning it so as to adjust the float level?????
Well dont suggest me for changing timing, starter motor, battery or checking grounds as i checked them and they are fine. The richness problem is in carb and its causing vapour lock making it hard to crank and even turn over.
It cranks and catches fire fine when cold
Thanks for your co-operation.
Regards to all.
Carburretor Venturi stuck?
You have a miss understanding about the Venturi in a carburetor. The venturi is the portion that the air passes through and is measured in mi-la meters at its base. Typical 28 MM venturi based carburetor. The screw that you mentioned I suspect is the idle air mixture screw. The further you turn the screw in the leaner the mixture becomes. Do not and I repeat do not force the screw or bottom it out as this will spread the seat and you will loose all ability to correctly set the mixture at idle. I do suspect that you have a bleed over problem that is causing a over rich condition. Look down the venturi with the motor running, do you see raw fuel dripping into the venturi? If so you need to rebuild the carburetor. Throttle plates are known for allowing scavenge air, so check for wear in this area if your having the carburetor rebuilt, it will make a big difference.
Well firstly the biggest problem with my car is its hard to start and the starter motor doesnt turn over the engine when hot at operational temperatures.
2ndly its runing far way to rich coz even after retarding completely from the dizzy the spark plugs are dark black in color.
3rdly my venturi is stuck it doesnt even rotate and on applying force through screw driver its face breaks down as its of brass or something.
My carb is of civic 95 D15B3 1st generation civic engine.
I want to know whether i need to screw the venturi to lean it or i need to unscrew it for leaning it so as to adjust the float level?????
Well dont suggest me for changing timing, starter motor, battery or checking grounds as i checked them and they are fine. The richness problem is in carb and its causing vapour lock making it hard to crank and even turn over.
It cranks and catches fire fine when cold
Thanks for your co-operation.
Regards to all.
Carburretor Venturi stuck?
You have a miss understanding about the Venturi in a carburetor. The venturi is the portion that the air passes through and is measured in mi-la meters at its base. Typical 28 MM venturi based carburetor. The screw that you mentioned I suspect is the idle air mixture screw. The further you turn the screw in the leaner the mixture becomes. Do not and I repeat do not force the screw or bottom it out as this will spread the seat and you will loose all ability to correctly set the mixture at idle. I do suspect that you have a bleed over problem that is causing a over rich condition. Look down the venturi with the motor running, do you see raw fuel dripping into the venturi? If so you need to rebuild the carburetor. Throttle plates are known for allowing scavenge air, so check for wear in this area if your having the carburetor rebuilt, it will make a big difference.
My 91 ford explorer won't start?
i charged the battery, i changed the starter motor, replaced the solenoid, and triple checked all cable connections, and i still wont start it just make a single click noise from under the hood what sounds like its coming from the fuse box..what am i doing wrong PLEASe Help..
My 91 ford explorer won't start?
it could be a bad solenoid or the starter is stuck. try tapping on the starter and try it.
My 91 ford explorer won't start?
I believe what you've got is a bad starter solenoid. It if found near the battery on the fender well.
Note: as a test shorting across the two large terminals should cause the starter to turn the engine.
Good Luckpets networking
My 91 ford explorer won't start?
it could be a bad solenoid or the starter is stuck. try tapping on the starter and try it.
My 91 ford explorer won't start?
I believe what you've got is a bad starter solenoid. It if found near the battery on the fender well.
Note: as a test shorting across the two large terminals should cause the starter to turn the engine.
Good Luck
'92 Ford Ranger is not getting fire to the motor..turns over fine..?
2.3 Liter fuel injected...I've changed starter, ignition module, coil packs, brain, plugs, and wires....it's still not getting fire to the motor. Please help!
'92 Ford Ranger is not getting fire to the motor..turns over fine..?
troubleshoot before you start trying hit and miss.
did you actually check for SPARK?
why replace the starter?
'92 Ford Ranger is not getting fire to the motor..turns over fine..?
you may have wasted a great deal of time and money, you could have a failed crank position sensor. since you changed the cpu, we can not check for any codes.......
'92 Ford Ranger is not getting fire to the motor..turns over fine..?
troubleshoot before you start trying hit and miss.
did you actually check for SPARK?
why replace the starter?
'92 Ford Ranger is not getting fire to the motor..turns over fine..?
you may have wasted a great deal of time and money, you could have a failed crank position sensor. since you changed the cpu, we can not check for any codes.......
VW Polo 1996 P Reg wont start?
Yesterday we changed the starter motor and it still wont start, when the key is turned all the ignition lights come on but nothing happens eg: no sound etc, any ideas of what could be the problem the battery has been checked and it is fine. Any help gratefully appreciated.
What'll happen if a 3 phase induction motor is kept running for 30 seconds in star and then changed to delta?
the motor is designed to run in delta and a star-delta starter is used for starting. the time for change over from star to delta is kept 30 secs. Any problem? For how long can we keep the motor running in star?
What'll happen if a 3 phase induction motor is kept running for 30 seconds in star and then changed to delta?
Why would you want to? Starting in star gives you a higher start torque but has lower running torque so is detrimental to leave it longer than necessary.
What'll happen if a 3 phase induction motor is kept running for 30 seconds in star and then changed to delta?
Why would you want to? Starting in star gives you a higher start torque but has lower running torque so is detrimental to leave it longer than necessary.
My ford mondeo 2002 tddi engine has become noisy like a knocking sound, also turbo stopped performing.?
It all happened when my starter motor was changed, Speedo doesnt work also a hollow knocking noise when started and run and turbo not working. any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheerio
My ford mondeo 2002 tddi engine has become noisy like a knocking sound, also turbo stopped performing.?
Sounds like the starter wasnt installed properly, or the old one when taken out damaged something. But the speedo stopped working is linked the front axle. And the hollow knocking could be a rod or lifter. Im not to familiar with Euorpean cars, but it also might be your engine jumped timing.
My ford mondeo 2002 tddi engine has become noisy like a knocking sound, also turbo stopped performing.?
Sounds like the starter wasnt installed properly, or the old one when taken out damaged something. But the speedo stopped working is linked the front axle. And the hollow knocking could be a rod or lifter. Im not to familiar with Euorpean cars, but it also might be your engine jumped timing.
00 sunfire starter issue can anyone help?
i have a 2000 sunfire with a 2.2l motor when i start the car the starter will stay on. I changed the starter and it still does it. There's 3 wires that go to the starter from a relay and soon as i unplug the relay it turns off like it should i changed the relay and still stays on and sometime the car will start when the key is turned to the on position. can anyone help??
00 sunfire starter issue can anyone help?
you need to check the ignition switch in it but also look for a raw spot in a wire leading to the relay unit,usually a bad ignition switch will cause other problems also,and it wont spring back after you start the vehicle,check that and look for a bare spot on a wire from the ignition switch to the relay, or from the relay to the starter.good luck with it.
00 sunfire starter issue can anyone help?
could be a bad ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch
I thought the relay at first too. BUT! Ignition switch my friend. I'm positive there's a short in the ignition switch.creating file red hair
00 sunfire starter issue can anyone help?
you need to check the ignition switch in it but also look for a raw spot in a wire leading to the relay unit,usually a bad ignition switch will cause other problems also,and it wont spring back after you start the vehicle,check that and look for a bare spot on a wire from the ignition switch to the relay, or from the relay to the starter.good luck with it.
00 sunfire starter issue can anyone help?
could be a bad ignition lock cylinder or ignition switch
I thought the relay at first too. BUT! Ignition switch my friend. I'm positive there's a short in the ignition switch.
92 corolla start problem?
I have a 1992 corolla which appears to have a life of its own. Sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't start, I turn the key, there's no crank, no whir, no nothing. And then, after a while, it just starts and a big puff of exhaust comes out of it.
I've had the starter motor changed, the battery, the engine main relay, the ignition filaments cleaned/changed. And it still does it. Its going to be winter soon, and I would REALLY like to know that my car will start!
HELP!!!
92 corolla start problem?
you need to check your connections on the battery and starter if all is good and your car is automatic you may have a problem in the netural safety switch it is a device on the transmission that wont let the car start in gear it can be bypassed to make sure that is the condition but if you turn the key and have no click or any noise it is probably in saftey switch but if you have manual transmission this is not the fix
92 corolla start problem?
its just the wiring harness fro myour ignition switch to the starter, take it to a car electonics speacalist, or just a good mechanic, and they will fix it in a jiffy...
http://findanswer.primavera-cnit.com
you can get much information in this website,If you will check anyone link in website
I've had the starter motor changed, the battery, the engine main relay, the ignition filaments cleaned/changed. And it still does it. Its going to be winter soon, and I would REALLY like to know that my car will start!
HELP!!!
92 corolla start problem?
you need to check your connections on the battery and starter if all is good and your car is automatic you may have a problem in the netural safety switch it is a device on the transmission that wont let the car start in gear it can be bypassed to make sure that is the condition but if you turn the key and have no click or any noise it is probably in saftey switch but if you have manual transmission this is not the fix
92 corolla start problem?
its just the wiring harness fro myour ignition switch to the starter, take it to a car electonics speacalist, or just a good mechanic, and they will fix it in a jiffy...
http://findanswer.primavera-cnit.com
you can get much information in this website,If you will check anyone link in website
Can I change the weight of my motor oil from 5W to 20W because it's heavier. I drive a high mileage truck??
1996 ISUZU TROOPER 3.2l V6 224K MILES. ORIGINAL ENGINE %26amp; TRANNY. GOOD MILEAGE. ONLY CHANGED STARTER. %26amp; AC COMPRESSOR.
Can I change the weight of my motor oil from 5W to 20W because it's heavier. I drive a high mileage truck??
10w-30 or 5w-30 will serve this engine the best......
224k? my 1980 (with original untouched engine) caprice is still running after tripping the odometer I forget how many times...... (its well over 300k) running on 10w-30. all I have is the good ol valve stem leak that those engines have....
My 96 s-10 is over 200k on 5w-30 and 10w-30.... burns no oil, leaks none.... and is driven hard (for a 4.3 liter, its fun to floor it some :P)
Can I change the weight of my motor oil from 5W to 20W because it's heavier. I drive a high mileage truck??
Look at the temp to viscosity chart in your owners manual. And I bet you can go to 20 wt oil and if not use high mileage motor oil.
Shure you can run any kind of oil you want
Highway miles are hard on a car but not like the stop and go.
If you change youe oil to a heavyer wight is ok, just be shure you use a good oil filter Fram is not a good oil filter
5w20 is a light oil. I was a mechanic for over 20 years and I have never seen 10w30 hurt a car. perhaps you meant 5w30. I'd switch to 10w30. One note.....once the oil heats up it all breaks down to 30 weight...the 5 or 10 is what it is at cold temperature.
I agree with the Fram part not being a good filter. Personally I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends and go w/ a high mileage oil . High mileage oil has additives in it that swell seals to help with blow by and leaks. I think youll work the lil v6 way to hard pumping that molasses around and it might not be able to lubricate into tight tolerances well enough.
5W-30 or 20W-40 is that what you're talking about????
Most equipment such as cars, boats and even mowers, offer suggestions in the owner's manual regarding which weight is appropriate for the engine. Single grade is the SAE distinction found on a bottle of oil, such as SAE40. This is a measurement of the oil's thickness and ability to withstand high temperatures. There is also multi-grade, for example, 10W40. This simply stands for the ability of the oil to withstand both hot and cold temperatures.
The 5W and 20W indicate the initial performance of the oil and not necessarily anything about the %26quot;leakage%26quot; through old engines.
Forget the W and buy a straight 30 weight oil. Additives may help but that's a shot in the dark. Consumer Reports did some testing that showed it might help a bit, I think.
Can I change the weight of my motor oil from 5W to 20W because it's heavier. I drive a high mileage truck??
10w-30 or 5w-30 will serve this engine the best......
224k? my 1980 (with original untouched engine) caprice is still running after tripping the odometer I forget how many times...... (its well over 300k) running on 10w-30. all I have is the good ol valve stem leak that those engines have....
My 96 s-10 is over 200k on 5w-30 and 10w-30.... burns no oil, leaks none.... and is driven hard (for a 4.3 liter, its fun to floor it some :P)
Can I change the weight of my motor oil from 5W to 20W because it's heavier. I drive a high mileage truck??
Look at the temp to viscosity chart in your owners manual. And I bet you can go to 20 wt oil and if not use high mileage motor oil.
Shure you can run any kind of oil you want
Highway miles are hard on a car but not like the stop and go.
If you change youe oil to a heavyer wight is ok, just be shure you use a good oil filter Fram is not a good oil filter
5w20 is a light oil. I was a mechanic for over 20 years and I have never seen 10w30 hurt a car. perhaps you meant 5w30. I'd switch to 10w30. One note.....once the oil heats up it all breaks down to 30 weight...the 5 or 10 is what it is at cold temperature.
I agree with the Fram part not being a good filter. Personally I would stick with what the manufacturer recommends and go w/ a high mileage oil . High mileage oil has additives in it that swell seals to help with blow by and leaks. I think youll work the lil v6 way to hard pumping that molasses around and it might not be able to lubricate into tight tolerances well enough.
5W-30 or 20W-40 is that what you're talking about????
Most equipment such as cars, boats and even mowers, offer suggestions in the owner's manual regarding which weight is appropriate for the engine. Single grade is the SAE distinction found on a bottle of oil, such as SAE40. This is a measurement of the oil's thickness and ability to withstand high temperatures. There is also multi-grade, for example, 10W40. This simply stands for the ability of the oil to withstand both hot and cold temperatures.
The 5W and 20W indicate the initial performance of the oil and not necessarily anything about the %26quot;leakage%26quot; through old engines.
Forget the W and buy a straight 30 weight oil. Additives may help but that's a shot in the dark. Consumer Reports did some testing that showed it might help a bit, I think.
How do you change a starter on a 1993 s10 4.3L 4x4 5 speed truck?
I jack the motor up and that still didnt work so i dont know..
How do you change a starter on a 1993 s10 4.3L 4x4 5 speed truck?
its not easy on your back did one on a blazer once spent most of the day doing it its not going to come right down you have to make several different movements with the starter to get it just right for it to come down
How do you change a starter on a 1993 s10 4.3L 4x4 5 speed truck?
That starter will come out with just a little movement of starter, turning it almost straight up and down will come out. Just a very big pain.
How do you change a starter on a 1993 s10 4.3L 4x4 5 speed truck?
its not easy on your back did one on a blazer once spent most of the day doing it its not going to come right down you have to make several different movements with the starter to get it just right for it to come down
How do you change a starter on a 1993 s10 4.3L 4x4 5 speed truck?
That starter will come out with just a little movement of starter, turning it almost straight up and down will come out. Just a very big pain.
Mechanics, have you ever changed out a starter that was this hard?
It's a '69 Ford F-100 with a 390 and auto tranny. I had to take the headers loose, remove both motor mounts and jack up the motor as high as it would go. If you'v ever delt the the FE you know it has three bolt, and the third one is between the starter and block, not the easiest to get to. After all that I had to fight it out. Now I really don't want to put a new one back.
Mechanics, have you ever changed out a starter that was this hard?
Been there and done that. Better a new one (have them check it before you leave the store) than put one on that doesn't work and have to do it all over again!
My pain-in-the-neck starter change out was on my uncle's 79 Chevy Caprice. Had a tortured time getting it out. Had to thread it back in. When I turned it loose to get a bolt to put in, it fell out in my face! I was not a happy camper!
Mechanics, have you ever changed out a starter that was this hard?
I did one pretty close. I replaced the starter on a E-type Jag with the 12 cylinder engine it was painful. This was a US version with left hand drive so in order to get to the 3 starter bolts I had to go through an access panel on the passenger side firewall. Once that panel was remover I then had to use extra long extensions lot of body contortions to remove the bolts from the starter leaving one loose so that the starter did not fall. Then I had to get under the car, remove the last bolt and snake the 30 lbs starter with my fingers along the frame rail and exhaust system from the back of the engine to the front where I could finally pull the starter out. I had to do the same in reverse (of course) to reinstall it.
It was a pretty tough job, but still not a tuff as changing the spark plugs on the Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III. That involved removing the two front tires and the inside fender wells. GEEZ!
The headers on this truck make it a problem but once it was removed you shouldn't have to remove anything else. The third bolt that is hard to get to can be removed with a long extension from the front of the motor, when putting the new starter in start the two accessible bolts, turn them in till they loosely hold the starter in its proper place and then install the last one by taping it to the socket and install it with the long extension just like it was removed.
i have left it out on my own truck before. never had any trouble because of it
well you eather have to put a new one on or your truck will not run. I know exectly how hard it is to do that. I am 14 and i have helped my dad fix cars sence i can remember and we have seen probably anywhere from 15 - 20 of the same car you are talking about. about 5 of the 15 - 20 were starters. it is tricky.
GOOD LUCK! =)
My worst one was a 1969 Chevy Malibu 396. v-8 the worst being I put it back together and replacement starter did not work. I was angry beyond livid . I cannot repeat the rest. I literally wanted to strangle the parts shop. I dropped the headers , had to raise the engine off the motor mounts , and everything Else that comes with changing a starter disconnecting battery etc.. only to put it back together and the rebuilt one did not work . I finally bought a brand new one [ I tried 3 rebuilt starters that did not work why ? They would not take returns. fortunately I benched checked the next two that did not work ] I am sure they have a idea how there window at the parts shop was broken with a bad starter laying on their floor ... Then again they probably did this to others also ... I have never bought a rebuilt starter , alternator , or water pump again . I sympathize with you . If you can afford the charge see if a mobile mechanic will come out or call around and see if you can have it towed into a shop . Either way it will cost you. This is a tough lesson at times you can question why the labor is high ...you found out the hard way.
Hah, I remember trying to tune up my '75 Chevy Monze 2+2 with the 262ci V8 4-speed. You had to disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine up as high as you could to get the last spark plug. The dealer told me the tune-up on the car was $660 in 1976, and I thought I would show him. Hah, it would have been cheaper in skin and blood to have had him do it, anyway! Why do they do such things to us?
Try removing or replacing a starter on any 4.6L/5.4L/6.8L V10 engine equipped Ford products. These are also 3 bolt starters where the top bolt is nearly impossible to access on just about any vehicle application imaginable, from Mustangs to E/F-Series trucks to Crown Victorias etc. The experience you described sounds almost like the same battle with the engines I've just mentioned. Consequently, I'm sure there MANY of these vehicles out there missing the top bolt on the starter.
Mechanics, have you ever changed out a starter that was this hard?
Been there and done that. Better a new one (have them check it before you leave the store) than put one on that doesn't work and have to do it all over again!
My pain-in-the-neck starter change out was on my uncle's 79 Chevy Caprice. Had a tortured time getting it out. Had to thread it back in. When I turned it loose to get a bolt to put in, it fell out in my face! I was not a happy camper!
Mechanics, have you ever changed out a starter that was this hard?
I did one pretty close. I replaced the starter on a E-type Jag with the 12 cylinder engine it was painful. This was a US version with left hand drive so in order to get to the 3 starter bolts I had to go through an access panel on the passenger side firewall. Once that panel was remover I then had to use extra long extensions lot of body contortions to remove the bolts from the starter leaving one loose so that the starter did not fall. Then I had to get under the car, remove the last bolt and snake the 30 lbs starter with my fingers along the frame rail and exhaust system from the back of the engine to the front where I could finally pull the starter out. I had to do the same in reverse (of course) to reinstall it.
It was a pretty tough job, but still not a tuff as changing the spark plugs on the Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III. That involved removing the two front tires and the inside fender wells. GEEZ!
The headers on this truck make it a problem but once it was removed you shouldn't have to remove anything else. The third bolt that is hard to get to can be removed with a long extension from the front of the motor, when putting the new starter in start the two accessible bolts, turn them in till they loosely hold the starter in its proper place and then install the last one by taping it to the socket and install it with the long extension just like it was removed.
i have left it out on my own truck before. never had any trouble because of it
well you eather have to put a new one on or your truck will not run. I know exectly how hard it is to do that. I am 14 and i have helped my dad fix cars sence i can remember and we have seen probably anywhere from 15 - 20 of the same car you are talking about. about 5 of the 15 - 20 were starters. it is tricky.
GOOD LUCK! =)
My worst one was a 1969 Chevy Malibu 396. v-8 the worst being I put it back together and replacement starter did not work. I was angry beyond livid . I cannot repeat the rest. I literally wanted to strangle the parts shop. I dropped the headers , had to raise the engine off the motor mounts , and everything Else that comes with changing a starter disconnecting battery etc.. only to put it back together and the rebuilt one did not work . I finally bought a brand new one [ I tried 3 rebuilt starters that did not work why ? They would not take returns. fortunately I benched checked the next two that did not work ] I am sure they have a idea how there window at the parts shop was broken with a bad starter laying on their floor ... Then again they probably did this to others also ... I have never bought a rebuilt starter , alternator , or water pump again . I sympathize with you . If you can afford the charge see if a mobile mechanic will come out or call around and see if you can have it towed into a shop . Either way it will cost you. This is a tough lesson at times you can question why the labor is high ...you found out the hard way.
Hah, I remember trying to tune up my '75 Chevy Monze 2+2 with the 262ci V8 4-speed. You had to disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine up as high as you could to get the last spark plug. The dealer told me the tune-up on the car was $660 in 1976, and I thought I would show him. Hah, it would have been cheaper in skin and blood to have had him do it, anyway! Why do they do such things to us?
Try removing or replacing a starter on any 4.6L/5.4L/6.8L V10 engine equipped Ford products. These are also 3 bolt starters where the top bolt is nearly impossible to access on just about any vehicle application imaginable, from Mustangs to E/F-Series trucks to Crown Victorias etc. The experience you described sounds almost like the same battle with the engines I've just mentioned. Consequently, I'm sure there MANY of these vehicles out there missing the top bolt on the starter.
Volkswagen polo 1.0 starting problems?
changed starter motor now another problem
Volkswagen polo 1.0 starting problems?
battery or motor locked up.
Volkswagen polo 1.0 starting problems?
Need more detail. Does the engine turn over or not. Could just be wet ignition electrics if it turns over, spray leads and inside distributor cap with WD 40. If it fails to turn over could be faulty engine earth lead or poor battery connection or seized engine, list just goes on and on.black hair server
Volkswagen polo 1.0 starting problems?
battery or motor locked up.
Volkswagen polo 1.0 starting problems?
Need more detail. Does the engine turn over or not. Could just be wet ignition electrics if it turns over, spray leads and inside distributor cap with WD 40. If it fails to turn over could be faulty engine earth lead or poor battery connection or seized engine, list just goes on and on.
How to change the solenoid on `a starter of a 1997 dodge ram 2500 conversion van with a 3.9 liter motor?
just go to the wrecking yard maybe $20.00 and get used one!
How to change the solenoid on `a starter of a 1997 dodge ram 2500 conversion van with a 3.9 liter motor?
drop the starter and unbolt the solenoid cover there are two wire. one on the left and one on the right pull it off and buy a new one
How to change the solenoid on `a starter of a 1997 dodge ram 2500 conversion van with a 3.9 liter motor?
you have to pull the starter completely off of it to do this,once off, remove the old solenoid,and go and get a new one ,match the old one up with the new one before you leave the store,and make sure its the same ,put it back on the starter,and re-install the starter,and connect the battery cable,and your done with it,make sure to tighten all the bolts up good though,that's real important,good luck with it hope this helps.
How to change the solenoid on `a starter of a 1997 dodge ram 2500 conversion van with a 3.9 liter motor?
drop the starter and unbolt the solenoid cover there are two wire. one on the left and one on the right pull it off and buy a new one
How to change the solenoid on `a starter of a 1997 dodge ram 2500 conversion van with a 3.9 liter motor?
you have to pull the starter completely off of it to do this,once off, remove the old solenoid,and go and get a new one ,match the old one up with the new one before you leave the store,and make sure its the same ,put it back on the starter,and re-install the starter,and connect the battery cable,and your done with it,make sure to tighten all the bolts up good though,that's real important,good luck with it hope this helps.
I have a riding lawn mower with a Briggs & Stratton Twin II 18 HP motor, that won't start?
We have tried everything we can think of. Changed a blown fuse. Checked the starter. Checked the wiring. When we had the battery on a charger it started, but now it won't start when on the charger. The motor turns over but acts like it's sticking and won't do anything. (it did this when we had the charger hooked up directly to the charger). Any ideas???
I have a riding lawn mower with a Briggs %26amp; Stratton Twin II 18 HP motor, that won't start?
When a battery is weak, it may not start even on a charger. If the motor turns but does so weakly, then it would seem to be the battery or the starter is dragging. Make sure also, that all the safety switches are oaky. If these go bad, they will also keep the motor from starting.
I have a riding lawn mower with a Briggs %26amp; Stratton Twin II 18 HP motor, that won't start?
1 get a new battery and start there with clean connections 2 pull out the spark plugs and see if a sticking carb has filled the cylinders with gas.
Take the spark plug out,this will reduce compression and see if it'll spin over,it wouldn't be the first time I've come across a partially seized motor,no amount of charging or good battery's will overcome this.And while the plugs out,and if it spins over at a good rate,place your thumb/finger over the plug hole and spin it,it should have enough%26quot;puff%26quot; to blow your finger off,if not there's no compression and it'll never start.If it's spins and has good compression hook the cars battery up to it with jump leads,disconnecting the mowers first,this will isolate a faulty battery on the mower.If it works the mowers battery has an internal fault.If none of this works I'd suspect the engines seized,you did check the oil yeah?
When a battery is weak, it may not start even on a charger. If the motor turns but does so weakly, then it would seem to be the battery or the starter is dragging. Make sure also, that all the safety switches are oaky. If these go bad, they will also keep the motor from starting try puting gas in or check the batterys or pull the thing as hard as u can if that dosnt work Take the spark plug out,this will reduce compression and see if it'll spin over,it wouldn't be the first time I've come across a partially seized motor,no amount of charging or good battery's will overcome this.And while the plugs out,and if it spins over at a good rate,place your thumb/finger over the plug hole and spin it,it should have enough%26quot;puff%26quot; to blow your finger off,if not there's no compression and it'll never start.If it's spins and has good compression hook the cars battery up to it with jump leads,disconnecting the
mowers first,this will isolate a faulty battery on the mower.If it works the mowers battery has an internal fault.If none of this works I'd suspect the engines seized,you did check the oil yeah?
I have a riding lawn mower with a Briggs %26amp; Stratton Twin II 18 HP motor, that won't start?
When a battery is weak, it may not start even on a charger. If the motor turns but does so weakly, then it would seem to be the battery or the starter is dragging. Make sure also, that all the safety switches are oaky. If these go bad, they will also keep the motor from starting.
I have a riding lawn mower with a Briggs %26amp; Stratton Twin II 18 HP motor, that won't start?
1 get a new battery and start there with clean connections 2 pull out the spark plugs and see if a sticking carb has filled the cylinders with gas.
Take the spark plug out,this will reduce compression and see if it'll spin over,it wouldn't be the first time I've come across a partially seized motor,no amount of charging or good battery's will overcome this.And while the plugs out,and if it spins over at a good rate,place your thumb/finger over the plug hole and spin it,it should have enough%26quot;puff%26quot; to blow your finger off,if not there's no compression and it'll never start.If it's spins and has good compression hook the cars battery up to it with jump leads,disconnecting the mowers first,this will isolate a faulty battery on the mower.If it works the mowers battery has an internal fault.If none of this works I'd suspect the engines seized,you did check the oil yeah?
When a battery is weak, it may not start even on a charger. If the motor turns but does so weakly, then it would seem to be the battery or the starter is dragging. Make sure also, that all the safety switches are oaky. If these go bad, they will also keep the motor from starting try puting gas in or check the batterys or pull the thing as hard as u can if that dosnt work Take the spark plug out,this will reduce compression and see if it'll spin over,it wouldn't be the first time I've come across a partially seized motor,no amount of charging or good battery's will overcome this.And while the plugs out,and if it spins over at a good rate,place your thumb/finger over the plug hole and spin it,it should have enough%26quot;puff%26quot; to blow your finger off,if not there's no compression and it'll never start.If it's spins and has good compression hook the cars battery up to it with jump leads,disconnecting the
mowers first,this will isolate a faulty battery on the mower.If it works the mowers battery has an internal fault.If none of this works I'd suspect the engines seized,you did check the oil yeah?
My ford transit van wn't turn over?
have had battery checked, which is fully charged, changed starter motor but
still no ignition lights on and won't tick over at all
My ford transit van wn't turn over?
Check the battery cables make sure they are all secure. Next would be checking to see if you are getting power to the solenoid. If you aren't then it could be an ignition switch ( the electrical switch not the key and tumbler) or a blown fusible link in the wiring.
My ford transit van wn't turn over?
if their is no ignition lights check the vans earth their is a fuseable link on the battery neg to earth which blows when the starte draws too much current too check get a multimeter place on neg terminal and suitable earth try and turn over if you see 12v then the link is blown and is not completing the circuit or take a jump lead attatch negative to battery negative then the other end of neg lead too the engine earth if you get dash lights then its the fuseable link
still no ignition lights on and won't tick over at all
My ford transit van wn't turn over?
Check the battery cables make sure they are all secure. Next would be checking to see if you are getting power to the solenoid. If you aren't then it could be an ignition switch ( the electrical switch not the key and tumbler) or a blown fusible link in the wiring.
My ford transit van wn't turn over?
if their is no ignition lights check the vans earth their is a fuseable link on the battery neg to earth which blows when the starte draws too much current too check get a multimeter place on neg terminal and suitable earth try and turn over if you see 12v then the link is blown and is not completing the circuit or take a jump lead attatch negative to battery negative then the other end of neg lead too the engine earth if you get dash lights then its the fuseable link
I can't get any power to anything on my 76 nova. i changed the starter. the battery is fully charged.?
i can start the car if i turn the ignition on (there are no lights or any dash lights) then i jump it at the starter and the motor starts. the starter never disengages though. please help.
I can't get any power to anything on my 76 nova. i changed the starter. the battery is fully charged.?
sounds like a serious wireing problem or a shorted circuit board. i can't help you much there.
I can't get any power to anything on my 76 nova. i changed the starter. the battery is fully charged.?
burnt fusable link
if you can jump it it is likely the battery cables dirty on the ground on the motor or where the cable goes in the battery cable end or the positve where the cable goes in the battery cable end the you put on the battery post. also clean the ground that comes from the negative battery and is the smaller grond wire from the negative battery post to the body inner fender. the starter never disengaging sounds like the starter is bad. but i would try a starter first
I burnt a fusable link (section of wire designed to burn out like a fuse) down by the starter on may 81 camaro, vehicle died and had no power anywhere
check the ignition switch it may be sticking. if it is not that check the coil. but it does sound like the ignition switch is bad.
move the wires off the %26quot; I %26quot; terminal to the %26quot; S %26quot; terminal on the starter solenoid. only one wire should be on the small %26quot; S %26quot; terminal and one on the %26quot; I %26quot; all the other wires go to the B+ at the top of the starter/solenoid. fusable links are easy to check just pull if streches its bad. GM used the starter as a junction point or power supply on the big B+ at the top for all systems like lights and sutch then it goes to the switches. start there. GOOD LUCK.
I can't get any power to anything on my 76 nova. i changed the starter. the battery is fully charged.?
sounds like a serious wireing problem or a shorted circuit board. i can't help you much there.
I can't get any power to anything on my 76 nova. i changed the starter. the battery is fully charged.?
burnt fusable link
if you can jump it it is likely the battery cables dirty on the ground on the motor or where the cable goes in the battery cable end or the positve where the cable goes in the battery cable end the you put on the battery post. also clean the ground that comes from the negative battery and is the smaller grond wire from the negative battery post to the body inner fender. the starter never disengaging sounds like the starter is bad. but i would try a starter first
I burnt a fusable link (section of wire designed to burn out like a fuse) down by the starter on may 81 camaro, vehicle died and had no power anywhere
check the ignition switch it may be sticking. if it is not that check the coil. but it does sound like the ignition switch is bad.
move the wires off the %26quot; I %26quot; terminal to the %26quot; S %26quot; terminal on the starter solenoid. only one wire should be on the small %26quot; S %26quot; terminal and one on the %26quot; I %26quot; all the other wires go to the B+ at the top of the starter/solenoid. fusable links are easy to check just pull if streches its bad. GM used the starter as a junction point or power supply on the big B+ at the top for all systems like lights and sutch then it goes to the switches. start there. GOOD LUCK.
Changing Range Rover Classic Fuel Pump?
I think i am going to have to change the fuel pump on my RRC. I went to start it today after being off roading yesterday, it started first thing and then spluttered to a hault. I tried starting a good few times again, the starter motor was turning but i couldn't get it to fire up. There was NO smell of petrol and i couldn't hear the normal noise of the pump running. Do you think this is defo the problem? If so is the pump located in the tank??
Cheers
Martin
Changing Range Rover Classic Fuel Pump?
It could be the conection to the pump which gets disconected at times. You have a access panel to the top of the tank though the floor of the car take that off and see if you have power to the pump.
Changing Range Rover Classic Fuel Pump?
the fist time I've heard a 4x4 being used what it was designed for
oh dear; what series RR? what lump is in it? petrol or diesel...
if its a V8 any old electro mechanical pump will do. off a mini... or any british leyland scrapper.
the pump may pump, but eh inlet inductuion also sucks the fuel thru, so, after you bounced the hell out of it, youve probably clogged the fuel line with crap. remove it and blow the line clear with an airline. also, check the carbs...
if its injection engine... go see a landy specialist and take your wallet.
theres a couple of relays under the drivers seat, one of these runs the fuel pump, its normally these that pack up, try tapping them while someone cranks it.lock file msdn
Cheers
Martin
Changing Range Rover Classic Fuel Pump?
It could be the conection to the pump which gets disconected at times. You have a access panel to the top of the tank though the floor of the car take that off and see if you have power to the pump.
Changing Range Rover Classic Fuel Pump?
the fist time I've heard a 4x4 being used what it was designed for
oh dear; what series RR? what lump is in it? petrol or diesel...
if its a V8 any old electro mechanical pump will do. off a mini... or any british leyland scrapper.
the pump may pump, but eh inlet inductuion also sucks the fuel thru, so, after you bounced the hell out of it, youve probably clogged the fuel line with crap. remove it and blow the line clear with an airline. also, check the carbs...
if its injection engine... go see a landy specialist and take your wallet.
theres a couple of relays under the drivers seat, one of these runs the fuel pump, its normally these that pack up, try tapping them while someone cranks it.
G'day i have landed troopie 02 6 cyl turbo there are one broken bolt on the starter motor on the bottem bolt?
the guy i got it off tried to drill it out but ended up drilling on a downward angle and has come out the bottem end of the bolt and through the bell housing can i still go through drill the rest out and then re tap/die thread back in or is it gonna be pull the and change the bell housing any suggestions tips or advice would be heaven sent at the moment i'm a fair way from town like 350 kays just to the higway but have a well equiped workshop and plenty of spares out and around the place out here
G'day i have landed troopie 02 6 cyl turbo there are one broken bolt on the starter motor on the bottem bolt?
if you can somehow drill straight through the bolt you could maybe use an ezy out to remove it or else drill it and tap a new thread it may be bigger than standard and you might have to make the hole in the starter bigger to suit but easier than finding a replacement bell housing
G'day i have landed troopie 02 6 cyl turbo there are one broken bolt on the starter motor on the bottem bolt?
if you can somehow drill straight through the bolt you could maybe use an ezy out to remove it or else drill it and tap a new thread it may be bigger than standard and you might have to make the hole in the starter bigger to suit but easier than finding a replacement bell housing
Toyota tondra starter?
What is the story on the toyota tontra starter, I have heard storys that one has to pull the motor to change the starter and costs hundreds of dollars.
Toyota tondra starter?
Web search:
Some indicate that you must remove the intake manifold.
List your vehicle type, and engine type.
Model Year Range Engine Chassis
Tundra 2WD V6 RegCab 99-04 5VZFE VCK30
Tundra 2WD V6 4 Dr 99-04 5VZFE VCK30
Tundra 4WD V6 RegCab 99-04 5VZFE VCK40
Tundra 4WD V6 4 Dr 99-04 5VZFE VCK40
Tundra 2WD V8 4 Dr 99-06 2UZFE UCK30
Tundra 4WD V8 RegCab 99-06 2UZFE UCK40
More: V8-2wd 2001
Need to remove the Air filter/a/f hose/ intake manifold, along with the injectors and rails, fuel line, return line, emmision hoses. it can be done as a unit with 2 people. It is quite heavy to lift out of the truck.I would also suggest replacing the intake manifold gaskets while your in there.
Quote from person who answered the question on tundrasolutions:
%26quot;Just wanted to thank you all again for the help. Everything went smoothly and replacing the contacts seemed to solve the problem. I still can't believe the starter was actually under there...%26quot; ( this person rebuilt the solenoid contacts).
Intake Manifold Gaskets (PN 1717150020)
QTY-2 @ $30 each (both sides identical)
Solenoid Contacts (PNs 2822650070 %26amp; 2822650080)
QTY-2 @ $8.43 each (different kit for each side)
There are two sizes of alternators used in the V8s (1.4kW %26amp; 2.0kW), but I believe the starter contacts are the same for both.
Toyota tondra starter?
I know what you are going through.
NO ONE, ESPECIALLY Toyota would be that stupid.
By the way, is a Tontra a new model I havn't heard of?
Toyota tondra starter?
Web search:
Some indicate that you must remove the intake manifold.
List your vehicle type, and engine type.
Model Year Range Engine Chassis
Tundra 2WD V6 RegCab 99-04 5VZFE VCK30
Tundra 2WD V6 4 Dr 99-04 5VZFE VCK30
Tundra 4WD V6 RegCab 99-04 5VZFE VCK40
Tundra 4WD V6 4 Dr 99-04 5VZFE VCK40
Tundra 2WD V8 4 Dr 99-06 2UZFE UCK30
Tundra 4WD V8 RegCab 99-06 2UZFE UCK40
More: V8-2wd 2001
Need to remove the Air filter/a/f hose/ intake manifold, along with the injectors and rails, fuel line, return line, emmision hoses. it can be done as a unit with 2 people. It is quite heavy to lift out of the truck.I would also suggest replacing the intake manifold gaskets while your in there.
Quote from person who answered the question on tundrasolutions:
%26quot;Just wanted to thank you all again for the help. Everything went smoothly and replacing the contacts seemed to solve the problem. I still can't believe the starter was actually under there...%26quot; ( this person rebuilt the solenoid contacts).
Intake Manifold Gaskets (PN 1717150020)
QTY-2 @ $30 each (both sides identical)
Solenoid Contacts (PNs 2822650070 %26amp; 2822650080)
QTY-2 @ $8.43 each (different kit for each side)
There are two sizes of alternators used in the V8s (1.4kW %26amp; 2.0kW), but I believe the starter contacts are the same for both.
Toyota tondra starter?
I know what you are going through.
NO ONE, ESPECIALLY Toyota would be that stupid.
By the way, is a Tontra a new model I havn't heard of?
My ford transit van has no power, what can it be?
When I turn the key my ford transit van has no power, have changed the starter motor
but that has not fixed it.
My ford transit van has no power, what can it be?
Insufficient information. What has no power? The engine on the move? Does it start at all? We are not psychic and need more clues!
My ford transit van has no power, what can it be?
check battery and connections. if not look for the megafuse
you can put the check in the mail. or at least 10pts minimum
by no power are you saying it simply won't crank over? or has no lights and ignition etc?
if there isn't any power then it will be a dead battery if lights don't work etc . or if lights DO work but still wont crank ( and you have changed starter motor ) then the ignition switch may be at fault or you may have a broken connection or faulty relay.
ask a Friend whom has some general DIY competence on a car to have a Look . if you are in a car service such as AA then they cam help if you upgrade to home start etc.
but that has not fixed it.
My ford transit van has no power, what can it be?
Insufficient information. What has no power? The engine on the move? Does it start at all? We are not psychic and need more clues!
My ford transit van has no power, what can it be?
check battery and connections. if not look for the megafuse
you can put the check in the mail. or at least 10pts minimum
by no power are you saying it simply won't crank over? or has no lights and ignition etc?
if there isn't any power then it will be a dead battery if lights don't work etc . or if lights DO work but still wont crank ( and you have changed starter motor ) then the ignition switch may be at fault or you may have a broken connection or faulty relay.
ask a Friend whom has some general DIY competence on a car to have a Look . if you are in a car service such as AA then they cam help if you upgrade to home start etc.
Starter Spins/ No Crank - Chevy Cavalier 99?
Hello,
I wanted your opinion before I go changing out the starter. At first the problem was intermittent, but now the enginer won't start. I would turn the key to START and the solenoid clicks, turns the flywheel maybe quarter of rotation , solenoid clicks again, and the starter motor keeps spinning, but does not crank the motor. After a couple tries, the solenoid seems not to even engage the bendix to the flywheel, and the starter just spins. What could be causing the solenoid to turn off prematurely? I did try to jump the car, with the same results as well as tapping the solenoid. Is there something else that could be happening here?
Chris
Starter Spins/ No Crank - Chevy Cavalier 99?
Starter Bendix solenoid. Change entire starter. If planing to keep car long time buy a lifetime warranty one.
Starter Spins/ No Crank - Chevy Cavalier 99?
throw in a new starter,,,,
save some money rebuilt one may get a kit through AZ
When that happens it is going to be the solenoid. Seeing that the starter works but its not engaging the bendix gear. If they sell just the solenoid get a new one. If not then your going to have to change the entire stater assembly.
I wanted your opinion before I go changing out the starter. At first the problem was intermittent, but now the enginer won't start. I would turn the key to START and the solenoid clicks, turns the flywheel maybe quarter of rotation , solenoid clicks again, and the starter motor keeps spinning, but does not crank the motor. After a couple tries, the solenoid seems not to even engage the bendix to the flywheel, and the starter just spins. What could be causing the solenoid to turn off prematurely? I did try to jump the car, with the same results as well as tapping the solenoid. Is there something else that could be happening here?
Chris
Starter Spins/ No Crank - Chevy Cavalier 99?
Starter Bendix solenoid. Change entire starter. If planing to keep car long time buy a lifetime warranty one.
Starter Spins/ No Crank - Chevy Cavalier 99?
throw in a new starter,,,,
save some money rebuilt one may get a kit through AZ
When that happens it is going to be the solenoid. Seeing that the starter works but its not engaging the bendix gear. If they sell just the solenoid get a new one. If not then your going to have to change the entire stater assembly.
Starting problems with a '97 Honda CB 500S : Any ideas?
Bike refuses to start. Starter motor turns over a couple of times but doesn't catch. Its pretty laboured and after a few turns will not turn over at all. Then you only have the sound of the relay clicking.
Initially I thought it was a cold weather problem as it took a couple of goes to start if it was cold/wet. Then it just generally wouldn't start, even on warm sunny days. So I tried a few things : Battery is fairly new, and was showing the correct voltage. The starter relay was working fine and clicking every time I pressed the starter switch. The starter fuse was fine. I changed the starter motor for a spare I had (Actually the original one). This was worse (more laboured and less turns) so I'm planning to switch it back, although I don't think this will cure the problem.
Failing a miracle cure, if anyone could point me in the direction of an online Honda or CB 500 forum, that works for me too.
Starting problems with a '97 Honda CB 500S : Any ideas?
Check all your connections, from the battery to ground on the negative side and from the battery all the way down through to the starter motor on the positive side. Don't just look at them, but take them apart and re-connect them. Clean all of them, even if they don't look dirty. Put the battery on a charger while you work on the wiring, and bring it to a full charge.
After you put the battery back in is the time to check your voltages. If your battery will not stay charged after this, you will need to start checking your regulator/rectifier, and possibly the alternator as well.
Starting problems with a '97 Honda CB 500S : Any ideas?
I had a 1982 Honda 650cb...I had to charge the battery everytime I planned to ride..it was good for about 20 starts and then I would end up push starting it.....check your voltage regulator, rectifer, stater....how are your spark plugs???
Try charging the battery, if that's not it, check the cable between the starter relay and the starter...............
It's possible the battery is bad.
A weak battery can be charged and show 12v - but not have enough cranking amps to turn the engine.
The starter motor will turn over a couple of times, then will not turn over at all.
I changed the starter motor for a spare.
Those 2 statements suggest the battery is defective.
Bring the battery to a shop and have it %26quot;load tested%26quot;.
Jump start your bike with a car battery. If everything works fine, then you've found the problem. Replace the battery.web hosting problem software
Initially I thought it was a cold weather problem as it took a couple of goes to start if it was cold/wet. Then it just generally wouldn't start, even on warm sunny days. So I tried a few things : Battery is fairly new, and was showing the correct voltage. The starter relay was working fine and clicking every time I pressed the starter switch. The starter fuse was fine. I changed the starter motor for a spare I had (Actually the original one). This was worse (more laboured and less turns) so I'm planning to switch it back, although I don't think this will cure the problem.
Failing a miracle cure, if anyone could point me in the direction of an online Honda or CB 500 forum, that works for me too.
Starting problems with a '97 Honda CB 500S : Any ideas?
Check all your connections, from the battery to ground on the negative side and from the battery all the way down through to the starter motor on the positive side. Don't just look at them, but take them apart and re-connect them. Clean all of them, even if they don't look dirty. Put the battery on a charger while you work on the wiring, and bring it to a full charge.
After you put the battery back in is the time to check your voltages. If your battery will not stay charged after this, you will need to start checking your regulator/rectifier, and possibly the alternator as well.
Starting problems with a '97 Honda CB 500S : Any ideas?
I had a 1982 Honda 650cb...I had to charge the battery everytime I planned to ride..it was good for about 20 starts and then I would end up push starting it.....check your voltage regulator, rectifer, stater....how are your spark plugs???
Try charging the battery, if that's not it, check the cable between the starter relay and the starter...............
It's possible the battery is bad.
A weak battery can be charged and show 12v - but not have enough cranking amps to turn the engine.
The starter motor will turn over a couple of times, then will not turn over at all.
I changed the starter motor for a spare.
Those 2 statements suggest the battery is defective.
Bring the battery to a shop and have it %26quot;load tested%26quot;.
Jump start your bike with a car battery. If everything works fine, then you've found the problem. Replace the battery.
Why won't my evinrude 65 hp outboard motor start?
when i turn the key the starter motor works and kicks up and gets the flywheel going, but it just doesn't sound like it is going to start. i changed all the spark plugs, and have a fairly good battery
Why won't my evinrude 65 hp outboard motor start?
three things your motor needs to start: compression, spark and fuel.
Spark test is accurately described above.
Compression test, a cylinder 10 percent lower than the best cylinder is enough to prevent it starting.
Starting fluid has no lubrication -- don't spray it into the carb of a 2-stroke outboard. Use premixed fuel/oil in a spray bottle instead.
Check the fuel system as described in the first answer above.
Give us the year and make of the motor, we can give better advice.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
%26quot;the year make is 1973%26quot;
by %26quot;make%26quot;, I mean who made it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
%26quot;the motor is a evinrude %26quot;
ok, 3 cylinders, 3 fixed-jet carbs, CD ignition.
post the results of your compression test and spark test.
Why won't my evinrude 65 hp outboard motor start?
First check to see if you have spark at the plugs, if not it may be a bad coil. If you have spark check to see if you are getting fuel to the cylinders. The best way to do this is to unhook the plug wires from the plugs, crank the motor over then remove all the plugs and see if they are wet. If they are not wet then you are not getting fuel to the cylinders. This could be caused by a collapsed fuel line, bad fuel pump, or plugged carb. Remove the drain plugs on the bottom of the carbs and check if any fuel in them. If they have fuel but it is not getting to the cylinders you most likely have a plugged carb which you will have to take the motor in to have it cleamed and adjusted.
Hope this may help you out with your problem.
take out one of the spark plugs, and check for spark, don't hold the spark plug lead as it will give you a shock if it is sparking, check fuel is being pumped, grab a can of aerostart and give it a squirt into the carbi, and crank it over, check your fuel condition, my out board wouldn't start, changed plugs new fuel spent all day working on it and found that the fuel line inner had delaminated, the fuel in the line was black and this was preventing the motor from firing. changed the fuel line and started and ran fine.
Sounds like a fuel problem if motor is turning over. A lot of thing come to consideration how old is the motor what's the fuel ratio is the fuel bulb cracked are u actually getting a spark is there a choke electric manual or both.
how old is the gas ?
fuel filter ?
choke not working ?
check if you have a spark by removing one spark plug and place it on the block so it has continuity and watch when it cranks.
do you have breaker points ?
Why won't my evinrude 65 hp outboard motor start?
three things your motor needs to start: compression, spark and fuel.
Spark test is accurately described above.
Compression test, a cylinder 10 percent lower than the best cylinder is enough to prevent it starting.
Starting fluid has no lubrication -- don't spray it into the carb of a 2-stroke outboard. Use premixed fuel/oil in a spray bottle instead.
Check the fuel system as described in the first answer above.
Give us the year and make of the motor, we can give better advice.
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
%26quot;the year make is 1973%26quot;
by %26quot;make%26quot;, I mean who made it.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
%26quot;the motor is a evinrude %26quot;
ok, 3 cylinders, 3 fixed-jet carbs, CD ignition.
post the results of your compression test and spark test.
Why won't my evinrude 65 hp outboard motor start?
First check to see if you have spark at the plugs, if not it may be a bad coil. If you have spark check to see if you are getting fuel to the cylinders. The best way to do this is to unhook the plug wires from the plugs, crank the motor over then remove all the plugs and see if they are wet. If they are not wet then you are not getting fuel to the cylinders. This could be caused by a collapsed fuel line, bad fuel pump, or plugged carb. Remove the drain plugs on the bottom of the carbs and check if any fuel in them. If they have fuel but it is not getting to the cylinders you most likely have a plugged carb which you will have to take the motor in to have it cleamed and adjusted.
Hope this may help you out with your problem.
take out one of the spark plugs, and check for spark, don't hold the spark plug lead as it will give you a shock if it is sparking, check fuel is being pumped, grab a can of aerostart and give it a squirt into the carbi, and crank it over, check your fuel condition, my out board wouldn't start, changed plugs new fuel spent all day working on it and found that the fuel line inner had delaminated, the fuel in the line was black and this was preventing the motor from firing. changed the fuel line and started and ran fine.
Sounds like a fuel problem if motor is turning over. A lot of thing come to consideration how old is the motor what's the fuel ratio is the fuel bulb cracked are u actually getting a spark is there a choke electric manual or both.
how old is the gas ?
fuel filter ?
choke not working ?
check if you have a spark by removing one spark plug and place it on the block so it has continuity and watch when it cranks.
do you have breaker points ?
How to remove the starter on my Hyundai?
2001 Hyundai Accent GL, 5 speed manual. I'm changing the starter. I've removed the air intake and main hose leading to the engine. I need to know the easiest way to remove the starter motor. It seems the clutch mechanism is in the way of me and the starter. Is it easier to jack up the car and go from the bottom? I'm going in from the top, right side. I'd rather not remove the clutch mechanism/frame support. Any suggestions?
How to remove the starter on my Hyundai?
The easiest way is from the top. It does require some upper-body flexibility because it is tight in there. You shouldn't have to remove the clutch mechanism.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the air box and air intake hose.
3. Unplug the solenoid terminal from the starter.
4. Remove the battery cable from the starter (12mm nut).
5. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the starter to the transmission.
6. Remove the starter through the space you've created by removing the air box.
7. Install the new starter by reversing the procedure.
How to remove the starter on my Hyundai?
I just made a post about Hyundai
go to net ask %26quot;E how%26quot; they may show you
or type ?? in ask .com
e how I believe explained how to put timing belt etc. to get to that belt on mine boxes are removed and water pump was in there etc.
I will never buy a hyundai again..............my brother in law owned there sports car version tribion I believe he said 2000 with in 3 yrs He said he was sorry too. the cheap comes out after 60 k miles.........
How to remove the starter on my Hyundai?
The easiest way is from the top. It does require some upper-body flexibility because it is tight in there. You shouldn't have to remove the clutch mechanism.
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the air box and air intake hose.
3. Unplug the solenoid terminal from the starter.
4. Remove the battery cable from the starter (12mm nut).
5. Remove the two 14mm bolts holding the starter to the transmission.
6. Remove the starter through the space you've created by removing the air box.
7. Install the new starter by reversing the procedure.
How to remove the starter on my Hyundai?
I just made a post about Hyundai
go to net ask %26quot;E how%26quot; they may show you
or type ?? in ask .com
e how I believe explained how to put timing belt etc. to get to that belt on mine boxes are removed and water pump was in there etc.
I will never buy a hyundai again..............my brother in law owned there sports car version tribion I believe he said 2000 with in 3 yrs He said he was sorry too. the cheap comes out after 60 k miles.........
How do you change the direction of a motor running in star delta?
The direction must be changed at the motor and the motor are connected to a star delta starter all the previous answers are bad
How do you change the direction of a motor running in star delta?
If you use star delta starter to reduce the starting inrush current then you don't need to care about its internal wiring as far as changing the rotation direction concerns. Just exchange any two of the three supply phase wires at the motor before they are connected to the starter timer/switch.
How do you change the direction of a motor running in star delta?
normally by swapping two power leads.
possible only by changing the phase
How do you change the direction of a motor running in star delta?
If you use star delta starter to reduce the starting inrush current then you don't need to care about its internal wiring as far as changing the rotation direction concerns. Just exchange any two of the three supply phase wires at the motor before they are connected to the starter timer/switch.
How do you change the direction of a motor running in star delta?
normally by swapping two power leads.
possible only by changing the phase
How to change the starter on a 85 GMC jimmy 4x4 ?
need to change the starter on my 85 jimmy 4x4 with the 2.8 v6 I have been told I have to lossen the motor mound to get the starter out is this true and how long should it take.
How to change the starter on a 85 GMC jimmy 4x4 ?
Remove the bolt on the motor mount Only the side that the starter is on first then get a floor jack and a block of wood using the jack and wood to raise the engine from the bottom
this will tilt the engine to one side allowing the clearance needed to pull the starter out. then just start removing the starter
it should take 2 hr or less if you prep your tools needed first.
How to change the starter on a 85 GMC jimmy 4x4 ?
It's true, and it took us a good 2 hours to get it off. But I'm kind of a dill.
How to change the starter on a 85 GMC jimmy 4x4 ?
Remove the bolt on the motor mount Only the side that the starter is on first then get a floor jack and a block of wood using the jack and wood to raise the engine from the bottom
this will tilt the engine to one side allowing the clearance needed to pull the starter out. then just start removing the starter
it should take 2 hr or less if you prep your tools needed first.
How to change the starter on a 85 GMC jimmy 4x4 ?
It's true, and it took us a good 2 hours to get it off. But I'm kind of a dill.
Ninja 250 Starter Solenoid or Starter Motor?
My Ninja 250 recently was running and then one day it just wouldnt run anymore. i have changed the spark plugs and the 30 fuse on the solenoid, now when i push the button to turn on my bike it tries to start but wont actualy crank, it just goes something like (%26quot;brpt brpt brpt%26quot;) it is not the regular clicking sound of a bad solenoid but i am not sure, it wants to start but it just wont crank.
Ninja 250 Starter Solenoid or Starter Motor?
Try jumping the bike off by skipping the solenoid .Pull the cable off the battery side and short it to the starter side . If it still will not turn over, it is the starter. These starters are build off the old Kz305 format. There are a very weak starter . There prone to burning up the armature. I rebuild a lot of them . also do about 150 armatures a year for a rebuilding company i rewind armatures for. My cost to rebuild starter is $59.95 plus shipping about $12.00 All my work has a year warranty . We rewind the armature with larger wire to help with the burn out problem. Tim tim@tpe-usa.com if you need details about the starter .
Ninja 250 Starter Solenoid or Starter Motor?
You state it %26quot;won't crank%26quot;. Where is the brpt brpt noise coming from? The right side cover area (where the starter solenoid is) or the left lower engine cover where the starter gear engages the gear that turns the crank? If you have no voltage at the starter when you hit the button thats one thing-then its the solenoid or someother problem up the line. If you have voltage at the starter then the problem could be the starter brushes are too worn to generate the current needed, or the starter gear(s) are worn or broken.dynamic editing handling exceptions
Ninja 250 Starter Solenoid or Starter Motor?
Try jumping the bike off by skipping the solenoid .Pull the cable off the battery side and short it to the starter side . If it still will not turn over, it is the starter. These starters are build off the old Kz305 format. There are a very weak starter . There prone to burning up the armature. I rebuild a lot of them . also do about 150 armatures a year for a rebuilding company i rewind armatures for. My cost to rebuild starter is $59.95 plus shipping about $12.00 All my work has a year warranty . We rewind the armature with larger wire to help with the burn out problem. Tim tim@tpe-usa.com if you need details about the starter .
Ninja 250 Starter Solenoid or Starter Motor?
You state it %26quot;won't crank%26quot;. Where is the brpt brpt noise coming from? The right side cover area (where the starter solenoid is) or the left lower engine cover where the starter gear engages the gear that turns the crank? If you have no voltage at the starter when you hit the button thats one thing-then its the solenoid or someother problem up the line. If you have voltage at the starter then the problem could be the starter brushes are too worn to generate the current needed, or the starter gear(s) are worn or broken.
Alternator/Starter Motor problem after service?
I took my car for a service to an local independent garage (%26lt;1mile from home). They carried out the necesarry work and charged me around 150 quid. I also had both front disc and brake pads changed. I drove the car home fine without any problems. In the evening I went to the surgery and on the way back home my car began to gradually lose power where the dashboard lights became dimmer and dimmer. The car finally came to a stop and all I saw was white smoke coming out from the front bonnet with a strange burning smell. After having it inspected by a mechanic the next day, I was told the smoke/smell was coming from the starter motor. This has never happened before and I have a feeling I that the service garage may have deliberatley done something to cause this. Upon informing them of this, they clearly said they had not been anywhere near the alternator/starter motor and if I wanted them to have a look at it, I should either use my RAC cover to tow the car to their garage OR they can tow it for me for 40 quid. They also mentioned that even for inspecting the problem they would charge me. I have a very strong feeling this was delibretly done just so that I would go back to them and spend more money. As they are in denial and because I drove out of the garage fine without any problems, they claim this to not be their fault in any way. Is there anything I can do...? cheers
peugout 306 1997 116k mileage
Alternator/Starter Motor problem after service?
I don't know why you keep going on about the starter motor as clearly from the symptoms you describe it is the alternator which is the problem.
As neither would be touched as part of a service I am not surprised that the garage is not bending over backwards to remedy it free of charge.
Just because you take your car to a garage does not guarantee it will never go wrong!
Alternator/Starter Motor problem after service?
What did the initial inspecting mechanic say the problem was which caused the smoke to come from the starter?
If something was deliberately done to cause this by the service work by the first repair facility, it should be readily apparent.
My friend, things can go wrong without having to have been sabotaged.
I doubt if they did anything, but you've certainly antagonised them now with your allegation. If I were you I'd look for another garage and while you're there ask them if there's any sign of deliberate damage.
It could just be a loose starter or earth lead or. Or a lead which has been dragged round during tightening to be touching metal thereby shorting to earth.
I think this is purely a coincidence.
i doubt if the garage had done anything.
the probable cause is that your starter failed to disengage its self from the fly wheel.
as you drive along you would be forcing the starter to keep spinning which in turn burnt it out.
starters are not designed to spin continuously at high speed for long periods of time.
拢150 for a service pads and disks is not a bad price.
disk 25
pads 15
oil 10
filter 8
air filter 20
labour 45
total 123
vat 15% 18.45
G total 141.45
this is just a guess at the prices. i do not think you have been done.
cta
First of all the starter motor and the alternator are different pieces of equipment attatched to different parts of the engine and it is difficult to think what might be done to either to cause them to subsequently fault. I do not however that your car has done over 100 thousand miles and wonder if both starter and alternator are originals. If they are then I would say they have done remarkably well, the alternator in particular. By your description I would suggest that the starter motor remained engaged with the engine after starting and subsequently became heated. If the alternator failed at about the same time then it would account for your lights dimming and the engine finally stopping. It is not unusual for both pieces of equipment to fail at around the same time. I suggest that if you are unhappy with the service you received from the garage who did your servicing then you find another. Indeed the RAC may be able to (unofficially) recommend one for you. I think you would find it very hard to prove negligence on the part of that garage without firm proof but you might mention it to your new garage in case anything untoward is found by them.
this maybe pure co-incidence but if you feel there has been some skulduggery and you are an RCA member see if they will look into it.
good luck as this can be very difficult to prove unless it is obvious and it may be something you will need to chalk up to experience and obviously not use that garage again
customers like you get on garages ****. just cos its been in the garage and i broke down a bit after don't mean that the garage done any thing, stuff on cars do brake with out warning that the garage can not for see.and a 150 quid 4 a service and discs and pads is bloody good price most places charge 140 4 the brakes alone.
peugout 306 1997 116k mileage
Alternator/Starter Motor problem after service?
I don't know why you keep going on about the starter motor as clearly from the symptoms you describe it is the alternator which is the problem.
As neither would be touched as part of a service I am not surprised that the garage is not bending over backwards to remedy it free of charge.
Just because you take your car to a garage does not guarantee it will never go wrong!
Alternator/Starter Motor problem after service?
What did the initial inspecting mechanic say the problem was which caused the smoke to come from the starter?
If something was deliberately done to cause this by the service work by the first repair facility, it should be readily apparent.
My friend, things can go wrong without having to have been sabotaged.
I doubt if they did anything, but you've certainly antagonised them now with your allegation. If I were you I'd look for another garage and while you're there ask them if there's any sign of deliberate damage.
It could just be a loose starter or earth lead or. Or a lead which has been dragged round during tightening to be touching metal thereby shorting to earth.
I think this is purely a coincidence.
i doubt if the garage had done anything.
the probable cause is that your starter failed to disengage its self from the fly wheel.
as you drive along you would be forcing the starter to keep spinning which in turn burnt it out.
starters are not designed to spin continuously at high speed for long periods of time.
拢150 for a service pads and disks is not a bad price.
disk 25
pads 15
oil 10
filter 8
air filter 20
labour 45
total 123
vat 15% 18.45
G total 141.45
this is just a guess at the prices. i do not think you have been done.
cta
First of all the starter motor and the alternator are different pieces of equipment attatched to different parts of the engine and it is difficult to think what might be done to either to cause them to subsequently fault. I do not however that your car has done over 100 thousand miles and wonder if both starter and alternator are originals. If they are then I would say they have done remarkably well, the alternator in particular. By your description I would suggest that the starter motor remained engaged with the engine after starting and subsequently became heated. If the alternator failed at about the same time then it would account for your lights dimming and the engine finally stopping. It is not unusual for both pieces of equipment to fail at around the same time. I suggest that if you are unhappy with the service you received from the garage who did your servicing then you find another. Indeed the RAC may be able to (unofficially) recommend one for you. I think you would find it very hard to prove negligence on the part of that garage without firm proof but you might mention it to your new garage in case anything untoward is found by them.
this maybe pure co-incidence but if you feel there has been some skulduggery and you are an RCA member see if they will look into it.
good luck as this can be very difficult to prove unless it is obvious and it may be something you will need to chalk up to experience and obviously not use that garage again
customers like you get on garages ****. just cos its been in the garage and i broke down a bit after don't mean that the garage done any thing, stuff on cars do brake with out warning that the garage can not for see.and a 150 quid 4 a service and discs and pads is bloody good price most places charge 140 4 the brakes alone.
How do you change a starter on a 2000 s-10 (2.2 motor) removed bolts..can not reach wires.how do i get to them
undo the hot cable from battery first after you get the start loose try turnning it so you can reach the wire or try working it down then do it
How do you change a starter on a 2000 s-10 (2.2 motor) removed bolts..can not reach wires.how do i get to them
undo the pos cable, and remove the heat guard.
How do you change a starter on a 2000 s-10 (2.2 motor) removed bolts..can not reach wires.how do i get to them
got through the wheel well you may have to remove the rubber or plastic thats in the way it is actually pretty easy to get to then.
How do you change a starter on a 2000 s-10 (2.2 motor) removed bolts..can not reach wires.how do i get to them
undo the pos cable, and remove the heat guard.
How do you change a starter on a 2000 s-10 (2.2 motor) removed bolts..can not reach wires.how do i get to them
got through the wheel well you may have to remove the rubber or plastic thats in the way it is actually pretty easy to get to then.
Dodge caravan starter?
i have a 2001 grand caravan sport 6 cylinder 3.3 liter. i am trying to change the starter motor. a problem came up when getting the bolts off. the bottom bolt came out fine. the top bolt is different. it has 2 nuts on it. the first justs holds 2 ground wires, i was able to get this one. off but the nut behind it wont budge . i tried wd40 with no luck. are there 2 different bolts to hold the starter on? and any ideas how to looses the top one?
Dodge caravan starter?
the top one on that one is probably a stud and the nuts should come off it,try a using deep well socket and a long extension if possible and get back from it and use an impact wrench on it,sometimes they can be really hard to get out,if the nut wont come off try a deep well socket and the whole thing may come out,its on their tight because it also is the ground for the engine,and time and heat has made it set in real good,good luck with it.
Dodge caravan starter?
It should come off with a deep socket and a some good leverage via a solid ratchet etc. A really good idea here is to get it out fully and clean those connections with a wire brush etc, wire connectors , stud , nuts and all to be sure you've solid grounds and do the same to the starter solenoid connections too.Plus check the wires for internal corrosion bec that age of a vehicle especially if subject to extreme temperatures or extreme climates are highly likely to have those wires especially the main thicker wires starting to corrode etc.
There is some much better stuff out then wd40 if you check with the parts stores etc there is a great product out that is used by jet engine mechanics, I just can't remember the name lol If you do use such sprays let the spray totally soak it and allow it time to really settle in and do its job give it as many hrs as you can maybe 12 or 24 hrs and go back spray it again soaking it.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way it really would be a good idea at the same time to check and clean all the connections from the power junctions , fuse box , battery , alternator , engine block ground and all grounds.
Dodge caravan starter?
the top one on that one is probably a stud and the nuts should come off it,try a using deep well socket and a long extension if possible and get back from it and use an impact wrench on it,sometimes they can be really hard to get out,if the nut wont come off try a deep well socket and the whole thing may come out,its on their tight because it also is the ground for the engine,and time and heat has made it set in real good,good luck with it.
Dodge caravan starter?
It should come off with a deep socket and a some good leverage via a solid ratchet etc. A really good idea here is to get it out fully and clean those connections with a wire brush etc, wire connectors , stud , nuts and all to be sure you've solid grounds and do the same to the starter solenoid connections too.Plus check the wires for internal corrosion bec that age of a vehicle especially if subject to extreme temperatures or extreme climates are highly likely to have those wires especially the main thicker wires starting to corrode etc.
There is some much better stuff out then wd40 if you check with the parts stores etc there is a great product out that is used by jet engine mechanics, I just can't remember the name lol If you do use such sprays let the spray totally soak it and allow it time to really settle in and do its job give it as many hrs as you can maybe 12 or 24 hrs and go back spray it again soaking it.
Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way it really would be a good idea at the same time to check and clean all the connections from the power junctions , fuse box , battery , alternator , engine block ground and all grounds.
About how much would it cost to replace a locked up motor in a 1999 accord lx?
Changed starter and battery need to know price tag to fix bearings in motor or replace it.
About how much would it cost to replace a locked up motor in a 1999 accord lx?
Pardon me for backing up in this, but from the description I'm not sure you've really established the motor is seized. If you put a socket on the crank bolt and try to turn the engine (always CCW in that vintage of Honda, like you're loosening the bolt) and it feels like you are trying to turn a big solid chunk of metal, it is indeed seized. Don't worry about the bolt actually coming loose - believe me, people pray to foreign gods that they could get that bolt loose!
If it is seized, I think others will have some good sources. A used motor from a wrecking yard would be a good bet but I don't know the labor cost for it.
About how much would it cost to replace a locked up motor in a 1999 accord lx?
Pardon me for backing up in this, but from the description I'm not sure you've really established the motor is seized. If you put a socket on the crank bolt and try to turn the engine (always CCW in that vintage of Honda, like you're loosening the bolt) and it feels like you are trying to turn a big solid chunk of metal, it is indeed seized. Don't worry about the bolt actually coming loose - believe me, people pray to foreign gods that they could get that bolt loose!
If it is seized, I think others will have some good sources. A used motor from a wrecking yard would be a good bet but I don't know the labor cost for it.
89 jeep cherokee inline 6 changed motor used the old wiring harness i am not getting power to anything?
I changed the motor it is an inline 6 same as the one i took out same wire harness i used a tester and got power to the starter and many other componets but nothing works no lights inside or outside turn the key over and nothing i have been tracing wires looking at diagrams in the chilton book i have been stuck whith this problem for over a week now any sugestions or help would be nice thanks
89 jeep cherokee inline 6 changed motor used the old wiring harness i am not getting power to anything?
I think I would start looking at the battery %26amp; leads make sure they are clean and tight if you have nothing at all? Have you also checked your ignition circuit including the ignition fuse this is a fuse that can sneak up on you. Did you earth out your motor to the body. Have you made sure all the wires are soundly connected. I know all these things sound petty but you may be surprised as to what a single item can cause. I hope this may help in some way.bulldog for sale big hair
89 jeep cherokee inline 6 changed motor used the old wiring harness i am not getting power to anything?
I think I would start looking at the battery %26amp; leads make sure they are clean and tight if you have nothing at all? Have you also checked your ignition circuit including the ignition fuse this is a fuse that can sneak up on you. Did you earth out your motor to the body. Have you made sure all the wires are soundly connected. I know all these things sound petty but you may be surprised as to what a single item can cause. I hope this may help in some way.
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
HONDA CIVIC EX 1997 manual!
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
Hi
it could be the neutral switch on the clutch.. are the cables clean between the battery post and the cable. those have to be shiny clean.
good luck
tim
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
Battery is bad.
ADDED:
Your radio = 4 amps
Lights = 12 amps
wipers = 9 amps
Starter 300 amps.
Your battery doesn't have enough power to turn the starter. but enough to do all the little things.
have your battery tested to make sure. Otherwise you have either a bad wire/cable to the starter, starter relay, ignition switch or a wiring problem.
Check your fuses in the engine compartment. That were the problem is.
pretty sure,the ignition switch.
Well if the motor itself works then somehow there isn't enough power getting to it.
This could be that the battery is dieing. You could try jump starting the car to see - if your starter goes then its the battery at fault
Or there could be a fault on the wiring to the motor. Get a friend who know a bit about electrical things to measure the voltage over the starter motor terminals while you turn the key - it should be 12 volts. If it isn't (it will be 12V or very low) then you have a problem with the circuit to the starter. If it is 12V then the fault is with the starter or somewhere around there.
It was a cold night in miami, so when i started it took a little bit more than usual , we got home and we left it there for the night, and the next day didn't start, no sound, nothing, the battery is good because everything works, no clicking sound no RRRR sound nothing it was like it we never turned the key, we pushed and yeah it started so it was the starter motor , we changed it and now we are in the same dilemma no sound no nothing, what else could be? ( we check the new starter in auto-zone and is working good) what we could do .....
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
Hi
it could be the neutral switch on the clutch.. are the cables clean between the battery post and the cable. those have to be shiny clean.
good luck
tim
I change the starter and still the car dosen't start!? PLEASE HELP (honda)?
Battery is bad.
ADDED:
Your radio = 4 amps
Lights = 12 amps
wipers = 9 amps
Starter 300 amps.
Your battery doesn't have enough power to turn the starter. but enough to do all the little things.
have your battery tested to make sure. Otherwise you have either a bad wire/cable to the starter, starter relay, ignition switch or a wiring problem.
Check your fuses in the engine compartment. That were the problem is.
pretty sure,the ignition switch.
Well if the motor itself works then somehow there isn't enough power getting to it.
This could be that the battery is dieing. You could try jump starting the car to see - if your starter goes then its the battery at fault
Or there could be a fault on the wiring to the motor. Get a friend who know a bit about electrical things to measure the voltage over the starter motor terminals while you turn the key - it should be 12 volts. If it isn't (it will be 12V or very low) then you have a problem with the circuit to the starter. If it is 12V then the fault is with the starter or somewhere around there.
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